I cross a frozen Lapland lake in brutal cold before a dancing green aurora and a bittersweet birthday celebration.
Lapland – Day 1: Pink Skies and Green Lights
I endure a freezing journey into Finnish Lapland before an unexpected aurora brings thoughts of home and those I’ve lost.
Tromsø – Day 4: Beyond Time
I explore Tromsø from above, get lost in timeless Sommarøy, and lose myself in the brutal history of Arctic exploration.
Tromsø – Day 3: Into the Arctic
I brave Arctic darkness and a blizzard from Tromsø to Skjervøy, where my long-awaited encounter with wild orcas finally happens.
Tromsø – Day 2: The Aurora Hunt
I explore Tromsø beneath the Polar Night before chasing a faint aurora that leaves me disappointed, fascinated and wanting more.
Tromsø – Day 1: The Polar Night
I arrive in Tromsø beneath the Polar Night, carrying heartbreak, airport chaos and the promise of an unforgettable Arctic adventure.
Scandinavia
I head north with old friends for a winter escape shaped by farewells, imagined romance and my first taste of Norway and Finland.
Manila: The Last Ride
My final day in the Philippines takes me through Intramuros by bamboo bike, from Spanish walls and Rizal history to ghost stories and goodbye.
Siargao – Day 5: Gnarly Waves & Goodbyes
My final morning in Siargao brings a perfect sunrise, wild surf, one last motorbike ride, and a bittersweet goodbye.
Siargao – Day 4: Freediver on the Road
My final Molchanovs Wave 1 day in Siargao brings rescue skills, baby freediver certification, a north-island road trip and a stormy sunset fail.