I leave Tirana for Belsh and Berat, finding glassy lakes, castle ruins, Ottoman streets and an unexpected war over tour-bus seats on my way.
Albania
I spend a week exploring Albania’s mountains, cities, and layered history, discovering a country shaped by isolation, resilience and change.
Amman: The City of Jerash
I explore the Roman ruins of Jerash before returning to Amman for a heartfelt final dinner with Delia and her wonderfully welcoming family!
The Dead Sea – Day 2: Holy Ground
I trace Jordan’s biblical past from Jesus’ baptism site to Mount Nebo and Madaba, reflecting on faith, doubt and the pull of sacred history.
The Dead Sea – Day 1: The Lowest Point on Earth
I canyon through Wadi Mujib, float in the Dead Sea and discover salt pillars, waterfalls and surreal desert landscapes across Jordan in awe.
Aqaba – Day 3: The Underwater Battlefield
On our third day in Aqaba, I dive among sunken military relics, celebrate Rafael’s certification and question where our journey is heading.
Aqaba – Day 2: The Cedar Pride
I spend a full day beneath Aqaba, diving the Cedar Pride, exploring Cable Reef and drifting through the perfect silence of the midnight sea.
Aqaba – Day 1: Back to the Deep Blue
I trade Jordan’s deserts for Aqaba’s Red Sea, dive a coral wall and sunken airliner, and watch Rafael take his first breaths beneath the waves.
Wadi Rum – Day 2: From Sunrise to Stargazing
A sunrise camel ride, painful goodbyes, terrible service and one final desert tour bring my Wadi Rum adventure to a bittersweet end at last.
Wadi Rum – Day 1: A Martian Adventure
From Jordan’s highest peak to a near-rollover in the desert, our first day in Wadi Rum ends with zarb, sunset and one more night together.