I dive through shark soup at Wolf Island, watch rays battle the current and end the night questioning whether I am ready for Darwin by dawn.
Galápagos Islands – Day 3: The Silver Vortex
I dive Punta Carrión, Mosquera and Seymour before hammerheads, rays and swirling jacks turn a routine safety stop into pure magic around us.
Galápagos Islands – Day 2: Team Whale Shark
On my Galápagos liveaboard, I dive with playful sea lions at Isla Lobos before discovering that our promised night dive has vanished at sea.
Galápagos Islands – Day 1: Welcome to the Wild Zoo
I spend my first afternoon in the Galápagos meeting sea lions, giant tortoises and blue-footed boobies across stunning San Cristóbal Island.
Montañita – Day 4: Ambition at Sea
I spend my last day in Montañita chasing green waves, reflecting on balance and wondering whether I will ever become a proper surfer myself.
Montañita – Day 3: Breaking the Surf
I spend my third day in Montañita sharpening my surf technique, losing at chess and confronting some frightening climate tipping points too.
Montañita – Day 2: Chasing Waves
I move onto a smaller surfboard in Montañita, catch more waves and learn how fast one calf cramp can bring a perfect day to a halt.
Montañita – Day 1: The Art of the Wave
I return to the Pacific for surf lessons in Montañita, where I meet a craftsman whose handmade balsa surfboards turn sheer passion into art.
Tena – Day 3: A Spiritual Hangover
I unpack my ayahuasca visions, comfort a friend after a difficult trip and spend my final morning in the Ecuadorian Amazon making chocolate.
Tena – Day 2: The Spirit Vine
I meet Shiripuno’s Kichwa women, spot Amazon wildlife and return to ayahuasca, where a vivid night of visions brings unexpected inner peace.