I dive with mola molas and marine iguanas off Fernandina, manage two underwater crises, cross the equator and witness one surprise proposal.
Galápagos Islands – Day 6: Paradise Below
I spend my final dives at Darwin among sharks and a vast bonito school before enjoying an afternoon of rest, gossip and newfound friendship.
Galápagos Islands – Day 5: Beneath Darwin’s Arch
I dive beneath Darwin’s Arch, encounter a humpback and whale shark, and experience the most overwhelming joy I have felt in many years.
Galápagos Islands – Day 4: The Sharkiest Day
I dive through shark soup at Wolf Island, watch rays battle the current and end the night questioning whether I am ready for Darwin by dawn.
Galápagos Islands – Day 3: The Silver Vortex
I dive Punta Carrión, Mosquera and Seymour before hammerheads, rays and swirling jacks turn a routine safety stop into pure magic around us.
Galápagos Islands – Day 2: Team Whale Shark
On my Galápagos liveaboard, I dive with playful sea lions at Isla Lobos before discovering that our promised night dive has vanished at sea.
Galápagos Islands – Day 1: Welcome to the Wild Zoo
I spend my first afternoon in the Galápagos meeting sea lions, giant tortoises and blue-footed boobies across stunning San Cristóbal Island.
Montañita – Day 4: Ambition at Sea
I spend my last day in Montañita chasing green waves, reflecting on balance and wondering whether I will ever become a proper surfer myself.
Montañita – Day 3: Breaking the Surf
I spend my third day in Montañita sharpening my surf technique, losing at chess and confronting some frightening climate tipping points too.
Montañita – Day 2: Chasing Waves
I move onto a smaller surfboard in Montañita, catch more waves and learn how fast one calf cramp can bring a perfect day to a halt.