I return to Tirana to explore Albania’s Ottoman and communist past, leaving me restored, reflective and already planning my next adventures.
Theth: Breathless in the Alps
I hike to Theth’s Blue Eye and Grunas Waterfall, survive an icy plunge and a terrifying drive, then unwind in Shkodër at dusk.
Valbona: Chasing a Wilder Life
I cross Lake Koman to Valbona, where adventure envy, a fairytale cabin and a sudden storm awaken my craving for a wilder kind of travel.
Philippines
A reflective opening to my Philippines trip, from long-haul exhaustion to solo travel nostalgia and the thrill of returning to Asia.
Bocas del Toro – Day 1: Island Vibes
From an uneventful border crossing to the “go slow” rhythm of the Caribbean. A journey through hojaldras, dollar boat rides, and the vibrant life of Isla Colón.
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca – Day 3: The Trails of Cahuita
From the toxic manzanillo trees to the pristine sands of Playa Cocles. A journey through Cahuita National Park, vibrant wildlife, and a final Costa Rican sunset.
San José – Day 1: Hellos, Goodbyes, and City Chaos
From a nine-hour bus ride to the heart of the capital. A journey through difficult farewells, city errands, and the joy of unexpected reunions.
La Fortuna – Day 1: Solo Again
From tearful goodbyes in Nicaragua to border scares and fines. A journey through visa overstays, new travel companions, and the road to La Fortuna.
Utila – Week 3, Day 6: Squid Game
From toothpaste pranks and mapping the Black Coral Wall to the awkward reality of a travel reunion. A journey through squids, scribbles, and revirginizing crises.
Utila – Week 3, Day 1: The Big Hibernation
From 25 successful dives to a febrile mess in a dark room. A journey through tropical fevers, missing the sunset, and the long-awaited gossip of the island.