I spend my last day in Montañita chasing green waves, reflecting on balance and wondering whether I will ever become a proper surfer myself.
I spend my last day in Montañita chasing green waves, reflecting on balance and wondering whether I will ever become a proper surfer myself.
I spend my third day in Montañita sharpening my surf technique, losing at chess and confronting some frightening climate tipping points too.
I move onto a smaller surfboard in Montañita, catch more waves and learn how fast one calf cramp can bring a perfect day to a halt.
I return to the Pacific for surf lessons in Montañita, where I meet a craftsman whose handmade balsa surfboards turn sheer passion into art.