I brave Arctic darkness and a blizzard from Tromsø to Skjervøy, where my long-awaited encounter with wild orcas finally happens.
Tromsø – Day 2: The Aurora Hunt
I explore Tromsø beneath the Polar Night before chasing a faint aurora that leaves me disappointed, fascinated and wanting more.
Tromsø – Day 1: The Polar Night
I arrive in Tromsø beneath the Polar Night, carrying heartbreak, airport chaos and the promise of an unforgettable Arctic adventure.
Scandinavia
I head north with old friends for a winter escape shaped by farewells, imagined romance and my first taste of Norway and Finland.
Manila: The Last Ride
My final day in the Philippines takes me through Intramuros by bamboo bike, from Spanish walls and Rizal history to ghost stories and goodbye.
Siargao – Day 5: Gnarly Waves & Goodbyes
My final morning in Siargao brings a perfect sunrise, wild surf, one last motorbike ride, and a bittersweet goodbye.
Siargao – Day 4: Freediver on the Road
My final Molchanovs Wave 1 day in Siargao brings rescue skills, baby freediver certification, a north-island road trip and a stormy sunset fail.
Siargao – Day 3: Free Immersion and Free Spirits
My third day in Siargao brings open-water freediving, a 12-metre descent, a road trip, and a sunset bridge farewell.
Siargao – Day 2: Cowabunga & Carbon Dioxide
My second day in Siargao brings Cloud 9, a rough surf lesson, the International Surfing Cup and the start of my freediving course.
Siargao – Day 1: Baby Jesus Returns
My first day in Siargao brings lost luggage, the return of Baby Jesus, old Utila friends, a beach rave and the start of a new adventure.