Part I · 2023

Nicaragua

Nicaragua · January 2023

Moving on without leaving it behind.

Nicaragua begins with a long border crossing into León, follows the volcanic corridor south through Granada and Ometepe, then finishes beside the Pacific in San Juan del Sur.

After months spent building a life in Utila, returning to constant movement feels unfamiliar. Nostalgia follows the buses and hostels, but volcanoes, shared adventures and the Pacific coast gradually create space for the road to begin again.

4Stages across Nicaragua
2Weeks on the route
6thCountry of the journey
2Volcanoes shaping Ometepe
Read Chapter I.VI

Four stages from volcanoes to the Pacific.

Each card follows one stage of the Nicaragua route, with its journal entries kept in chronological order.

01

León

A tense border crossing leads into Nicaragua’s revolutionary capital of culture, where colonial streets, cathedral rooftops and the black slopes of Cerro Negro compete with memories of Utila.

02

Granada

Colourful colonial streets become a base for jungle parties, volcanic craters, a glowing lava lake and diving beneath the calm surface of Laguna de Apoyo.

03

Ometepe

The route reaches an infinity-shaped island in Lago Cocibolca, framed by Concepción and Maderas and filled with rural roads, petroglyphs, waterfalls and unexpected encounters.

04

San Juan del Sur

The Nicaragua chapter closes on the Pacific coast, where beaches, surf-town energy and one final stretch of road bridge Ometepe with the approaching Costa Rican border.

After

After Nicaragua

Nicaragua closes a chapter of transition: leaving the life built in Utila, learning to move again, and rediscovering momentum through volcanoes, new friendships and the Pacific coast.

Read the reflection
En Dios Confiamos
In God We Trust
National motto of Nicaragua
What Nicaragua becomes

A country between chapters.

The journey moves forward, but Nicaragua proves that leaving a place does not mean leaving behind everything it changed.

Leaving Utila

The first kilometres through Nicaragua are haunted by the home, friendships and routine left behind in Honduras.

01

Fire and water

Volcanic ash, lava, crater lagoons and the freshwater sea of Cocibolca shape nearly every stage of the route.

02

The shared road

Travelling with Amelia changes the rhythm of the journey, replacing solitary freedom with shared chaos, comfort and memory.

03
Reflections of a Roving Doctor complete collection artwork
The complete gap-year journal

Nicaragua teaches the road to begin again.

Continue through Costa Rica, Panama, South America, Antarctica and the long route back home in the complete Reflections of a Roving Doctor collection.

The road crosses south again.

Nicaragua ends on the Pacific coast in San Juan del Sur. The next chapter crosses into Costa Rica for rainforest trails, hot springs, wildlife and the Arenal landscape around La Fortuna.

Continue with Costa Rica.
Read Costa Rica