León
A tense border crossing leads into Nicaragua’s revolutionary capital of culture, where colonial streets, cathedral rooftops and the black slopes of Cerro Negro compete with memories of Utila.
Nicaragua begins with a long border crossing into León, follows the volcanic corridor south through Granada and Ometepe, then finishes beside the Pacific in San Juan del Sur.
After months spent building a life in Utila, returning to constant movement feels unfamiliar. Nostalgia follows the buses and hostels, but volcanoes, shared adventures and the Pacific coast gradually create space for the road to begin again.
Begin with the country itself - its land, people and history - before following the journal along the Pacific volcanic corridor.
The largest country in Central America, bordered by two seas and defined by great lakes, volcanic landscapes and a strong literary identity.
Read Country →Pacific volcanoes, central highlands, Caribbean rainforest and the vast waters of Lakes Nicaragua and Managua create dramatic geographic contrasts.
Read Land →Spanish-speaking Pacific communities meet Indigenous, Creole and Afro-descendant cultures across the Caribbean regions and islands.
Read People →Indigenous civilisations, Spanish conquest, independence, foreign intervention, revolution and civil conflict form a turbulent national story.
Read History →Each card follows one stage of the Nicaragua route, with its journal entries kept in chronological order.
A tense border crossing leads into Nicaragua’s revolutionary capital of culture, where colonial streets, cathedral rooftops and the black slopes of Cerro Negro compete with memories of Utila.
Colourful colonial streets become a base for jungle parties, volcanic craters, a glowing lava lake and diving beneath the calm surface of Laguna de Apoyo.
The route reaches an infinity-shaped island in Lago Cocibolca, framed by Concepción and Maderas and filled with rural roads, petroglyphs, waterfalls and unexpected encounters.
The Nicaragua chapter closes on the Pacific coast, where beaches, surf-town energy and one final stretch of road bridge Ometepe with the approaching Costa Rican border.
Nicaragua closes a chapter of transition: leaving the life built in Utila, learning to move again, and rediscovering momentum through volcanoes, new friendships and the Pacific coast.
En Dios ConfiamosNational motto of Nicaragua
In God We Trust
The journey moves forward, but Nicaragua proves that leaving a place does not mean leaving behind everything it changed.
The first kilometres through Nicaragua are haunted by the home, friendships and routine left behind in Honduras.
01Volcanic ash, lava, crater lagoons and the freshwater sea of Cocibolca shape nearly every stage of the route.
02Travelling with Amelia changes the rhythm of the journey, replacing solitary freedom with shared chaos, comfort and memory.
03
Continue through Costa Rica, Panama, South America, Antarctica and the long route back home in the complete Reflections of a Roving Doctor collection.
The road crosses south again.
Nicaragua ends on the Pacific coast in San Juan del Sur. The next chapter crosses into Costa Rica for rainforest trails, hot springs, wildlife and the Arenal landscape around La Fortuna.
Continue with Costa Rica.