The pomegranate creek
The usual translation is Pomegranate Creek: ħondoq refers to a hollow or creek, while rummien means pomegranates.
Gozo · Hiking
The Channel Trail:
The Channel Trail:
From Ħondoq ir-Rummien to Mġarr
A short coastal hike along Gozo's south-east edge, threading past hidden creeks, faulted limestone and open views across the channel to Comino before finishing at Mġarr Harbour.
Gozo's channel coast
A small trail with far more coastline than its distance suggests.
Between Ħondoq ir-Rummien and Mġarr, Gozo's south-east coast feels unusually open. The path stays close to the sea, with Comino across the channel and Mġarr gradually appearing ahead.
The trail is rougher than the distance suggests, crossing rock, eroded sections and Blue Clay around Ta' Bumbarin, Ġebel Barbaġanni and Taċ-Ċawl.
Etymology
A coastline written into its names
The names along this coast preserve references to plants, birds, marine life and Gozo's main harbour.
A possible echo of the monk seal
One interpretation links Bumbarin with an old Maltese name for the Mediterranean monk seal, an animal once associated with the islands' sea caves. The connection is plausible rather than certain.
Birds - or perhaps a fish
Ġebel Barbaġanni means the Barn Owl's rocks. Nearby Ġebel taċ-Ċawl is more ambiguous: ċawl can refer to the locally extinct jackdaw or to the damselfish.
A harbour name with two readings
The name has been linked both to a landing or carrying place and to the plural of miġra, a watercourse. The second reading fits the springs historically recorded around the harbour.
Hike profile
- Distance
- Approx. 2.7 km
- Time
- 1-1.5 hours with stops
- Difficulty
- Easy-moderate · narrow in places
- Terrain
- Rock · dirt trail · Blue Clay
- Elevation
- Rolling coast · modest gain and loss
- Best season
- Autumn to spring · dry weather
The route
Creeks, rock and the Gozo Channel
The coastal line is fairly intuitive, but parts are narrow and erosion can alter the best route. Treat the sequence below as orientation rather than turn-by-turn navigation.
Recorded trail map
Ħondoq ir-Rummien → Mġarr Harbour
The Wikiloc track was recorded from Mġarr to Ħondoq; follow it in reverse for this post.
Recorded GPS track
START Ħondoq ir-Rummien
FINISH Mġarr Harbour
Ħondoq → Ta' Bumbarin → Barbaġanni → Taċ-Ċawl → Mġarr
A schematic sequence, not turn-by-turn navigation.
South-east Gozo · westbound
01
StartĦondoq ir-Rummien
02
CreekTa' Bumbarin
03
PromontoryĠebel Barbaġanni
04
Rock & inletTaċ-Ċawl
05
FinishMġarr Harbour
Navigation note: the path is exposed and locally eroded. Use a current offline map, keep back from cliff edges and turn around if a section looks freshly undercut or unstable.
Leave the bay and enter the wild coast
From Ħondoq, follow the coast west with the sea on your left. Madonna tal-Blat and Comino remain useful reference points as the trail crosses open rock and low scrub.
Small creeks below the trail
Continue around Ta' Bumbarin and Ġebel Barbaġanni through low maritime vegetation. Rough side paths descend towards the shoreline but are steeper than the main trail and optional.
The geology becomes obvious
Around Taċ-Ċawl, the geology becomes obvious: grey Blue Clay, pale Globigerina Limestone and displaced blocks of harder rock sit side by side, while Ġebel taċ-Ċawl appears almost detached.
Finish beneath the harbour skyline
The final section bends towards Mġarr beneath Fort Chambray, where the quiet coast gives way to moorings, ferries and restaurants - a practical place to finish.
Once you reach Mġarr
The ferry terminal beside the finish makes this an easy Malta day trip. Extend it through Għajnsielem or Fort Chambray, or return to Ħondoq through Qala for a loop.
Why the coast looks like this
A faulted slice of Gozo
The most interesting part of the walk is not just the view: the rock sequence itself has been disturbed, exposing layers in positions you would not normally expect to see them.
The section that changes after rain
Blue Clay forms smooth grey slopes along the coast. Dry it can feel firm and dusty; saturated it becomes sticky, slippery and unstable, so rain changes this hike disproportionately.
Layers pushed out of sequence
A coastal fault disturbs the normal Maltese rock sequence, creating a compact geology lesson around Taċ-Ċawl and Ġebel Barbaġanni.
Upper limestone down at sea level
Large masses of Upper Coralline Limestone have slid towards the sea, forming rocky islets and promontories such as Taċ-Ċawl and Tal-Ħalfa - rock normally much higher in the sequence.
Look for it on the trail
The clearest contrast is smooth grey Blue Clay against warmer Globigerina Limestone and harder detached blocks near the sea. Around Taċ-Ċawl, that geology explains the fractured shoreline.
Practical guide
Short route, exposed trail
Logistics are easy; trail condition, heat and cliff exposure matter more.
Choose a topic
Getting there
Mġarr is the easier end.
Linear route
- Ħondoq is reached by road below Qala; buses do not stop on the beach.
- By public transport, approach via Qala and walk down to the bay.
- Mġarr Harbour has ferries, buses, taxis and food.
- If driving, arrange a taxi or lift back to Ħondoq rather than returning along the coast after dark.
Trail conditions
Erosion matters more than mileage.
Check before setting out
- Expect narrow, uneven and eroded stretches.
- Blue Clay becomes muddy and slippery after rain.
- Stay well back from cliff edges and undercut ground.
- Storms can alter the path, so use a current map or GPX.
If a coastal section has deteriorated or feels unsafe, turn back and use the inland road network through Qala instead of forcing the line.
When to go
Cool, dry and calm conditions are best.
Autumn → spring
- October to April is usually most comfortable.
- In warmer months, start early or late - shade is scarce.
- Avoid the trail just after heavy rain because of clay and erosion.
- Strong winds make exposed sections less forgiving.
What to bring
Simple kit, but wear proper shoes.
Travel light
- Grippy trail shoes or hiking shoes.
- Water, sunscreen and a hat.
- Offline navigation or GPX.
- Swimwear for Ħondoq or an accessible creek.
- Walking poles can help on loose or muddy ground.
Photos
From a quiet bay to a working harbour
From Ħondoq ir-Rummien through Ta' Bumbarin and Taċ-Ċawl to the first views of Mġarr Harbour.
My experience
A couple of hours away from everything
This was a quick, unplanned getaway hike - exactly what I needed. I set off with little more than the idea of following the coast from Ħondoq to Mġarr.
For a couple of hours I had almost complete solitude, with little more than the sea, cliffs and path ahead.
It was simple, quiet and restorative - a reminder of why I keep escaping to the coast.
Final take
Gozo in miniature
Ħondoq to Mġarr is not about distance. In a few kilometres it moves from a sheltered bay to wild creeks, exposed geology and a working harbour, with Comino across the water. It is compact, varied and easy to build into a Gozo day trip.
Route context & further reading
These sources provide route, coastal-walking and GPS context for Ħondoq to Mġarr.