I leave Tirana for Belsh and Berat, finding glassy lakes, castle ruins, Ottoman streets and an unexpected war over tour-bus seats on my way.
Istanbul – Day 4: Relics & Regrets
I explore Topkapi Palace on my final day in Istanbul, then say goodbye to Turkey – and to the woman I had quietly fallen for.
Istanbul – Day 2: Mosques & Minarets
I explore Istanbul’s mosques and Galata Tower before a glamorous birthday night ends with a celebrity crush moment.