Lapland – Day 4: Boys Versus Blizzard
LAPLAND
Day 4: Boys Versus Blizzard
December 05, 2024
It was just us boys – Rohan, Joshin, Manish and me. With no set plans, I decided to take the lead. As fun as the trip had been so far, I was kinda tired of all these cushy tours. I wanted something with a bit more oomph.
And so, I dragged everyone to Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park – the wild heart of Finnish Lapland, where an immense chain of forests and open fells stretches across the region between Ylläs in the south and Hetta in the north. What I had advertised as a short hike would take us into the southern part of the park near Äkäslompolo, knowing full well that it would push the others out of their comfort zones since they weren’t particularly into outdoor sports. While they were a little apprehensive at first, it didn’t take long for them to become just as excited as I was once we reached the trailhead.
In fact, the information board at the beginning of the trail was already promising, claiming that we’d be breathing some of the purest air measured anywhere in the world while enjoying wide-open horizons, enormous skies and the crisp stillness of the north. I just couldn’t wait to get going!
Into the Frozen Forest
The first part of our hike was a peaceful and tranquil walk through the snow-covered pine forest. I do have to admit that I was also a little stressed, having suddenly become the self-appointed guide in completely uncharted territory.
Luckily, the route initially appeared well marked and packed down. Besides, the views were so incredible that all of us would’ve been more than happy simply wandering around the same area. With old pine forests draped in Arctic lichens, the occasional reindeer tucked between the trees and the mires surrounding the now-frozen Lake Kesänkijärvi, it was truly the perfect start to our day.
All along the trail, we stumbled upon several information boards, although most were completely frozen over and illegible. The few we managed to read taught us about some of the local plants found across the surrounding forests and fells:
- Alpine bearberry: A low, ground-hugging shrub commonly found across the fells and tundra of northern Finland. It forms sprawling, carpet-like growths that can stretch up to around half a metre, with small leaves that turn a striking fiery red during autumn. Its berries begin red before ripening to black, adding another splash of colour to the otherwise rugged fell landscape. It is one of those hardy northern plants capable of surviving in cold, exposed environments where few larger species can thrive.
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- Garden angelica: A tall and dramatic Arctic plant that can reach between 1.5 and 2 metres in height. It usually grows in damp areas and has a thick, hollow stem, broad leaves and large umbrella-shaped clusters of tiny white or greenish flowers. Garden angelica has traditionally been an important vegetable and source of vitamin C for the Sámi, while also being used as a spice, tea herb and medicinal plant. Its sheer size and unusual appearance give it an almost prehistoric quality.
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The Devil's Gorge
Once we reached the eastern end of the lake, the path led us towards a dramatic gorge – Pirunkuru, also known as the Devil’s Ravine.
The climb looked as though it would involve roughly 300 metres of ascent. Under ordinary conditions, that might not have seemed like much, but the deep snow, ice and our striking lack of appropriate equipment or winter-mountain experience made it considerably more daunting. My anxiety went through the roof when I saw several other hikers carrying snowshoes or fastening traction spikes to their boots while we stood there looking like complete and total amateurs. But we’d be fine. I’d conquered the Patagonian wilderness – this was nothing! I assured the others that we’d turn back the second things became too difficult, completely unaware of what lay ahead of us.
And with that, we began the climb. The gorge formed a natural staircase of uneven rocks, loose scree and steep inclines, enclosed by sharply rising walls covered in old pines, mosses and lichen. Snow and ice concealed much of the terrain beneath our feet, forcing us to pick our way upwards one careful step at a time. At the time, the climb felt surprisingly manageable and never seemed particularly dangerous, although some of us found it more challenging than others. Looking back, that confidence probably had more to do with our ignorance than our experience.
The Whiteout
Once we finally scrambled our way out of the gorge and onto the upper slopes of Kesänkitunturi, the suffering was unquestionably worth it. The summit offered sweeping views across Lake Kesänkijärvi, the surrounding fells and the seemingly endless wilderness of Lapland. It was truly a sight to behold!
I would’ve loved for us to spend a couple of hours up there simply admiring the panorama, but the blizzard that nearly froze us to the bone quickly pushed us onwards in search of shelter from the icy wind and snow. We struggled along the barely visible paths as the wind battered us from every direction, but despite the challenge, we were all loving it. It was something completely new and different for every one of us.
As we approached the section that would eventually take us downhill, we found an enormous pine tree that provided some protection from the elements. There, we could finally stop for a breather and properly appreciate our surroundings. It looked as though we had been stranded inside an enormous tub of stracciatella ice cream! At one point, the blizzard became so thick that I thought we were walking through a cloud, with the horizon completely indistinguishable from the snow-covered ground. Then, once the weather cleared slightly, it felt as though we were standing above an ocean. The dark green mass of trees beneath us, interspersed with rolling patches of white, resembled waves stretching into the distance. It was simply surreal!
Knowing how unpredictable the weather could be and having no idea how difficult the descent would become, I tried to get the boys moving as quickly as possible – especially with the sun setting so early. As much as they were loving the experience, they also seemed completely oblivious to how harsh nature could become, despite my repeated warnings. In fact, they didn’t seem particularly concerned when I told them that we might have to spend the night on the mountain if we failed to get down in time.
Given how underprepared we were, the joke wasn’t quite as funny as they seemed to think. Still, it was crazy to think that these guys had been averse to almost every outdoor activity only a few hours earlier!
One Last Reckless Adventure
Fortunately, we maintained a steady pace and managed to complete the loop, arriving back at the trailhead before darkness fully settled.
Afterwards, we enjoyed a well-deserved dinner. I then left the group to wander around town for a while as they headed back to the lodge for some rest. Finally free to roam on my own, I managed to find some non-PG-13 fun in an effort to get over Priya. Little did I know that, on the way to his place, I’d end up lost in the woods while wading through knee-deep snow. I was fully aware of how incredibly stupid and reckless the whole thing was. Then again, it wasn’t the first time I had found myself in a similar situation just to have some fun. Luckily, it paid off. It was well worth the hassle.
And with that final, questionable adventure, our journey through the Nordic north came to a close. It was definitely one of my favourite trips, and I left wanting so much more. I knew I’d return to this incredible region one day. And when the time came, I’d venture even deeper into the Arctic wilderness.