Granada – Day 1: The Great Sultana
GRANADA
Day 1: The Great Sultana
January 05, 2023
Having made our way down the volcano of Telica after our overnight stay, Aemlia and I rushed to get ready for our next trip – this time to the city of Granada.
Whilst most would probably argue Amelia was a positive influence on my travelling habits, I certainly beg to differ. During my entire trip, I almost always opted to spend a bit more money in exchange for comfort. A deluxe bus over a chicken bus. A shuttle van over a colectivo. A taxi instead of a scooter ride. As prissy as I might sound, I don’t get backpackers’ fascination with obsolete means of transport. I get the financial factor, don’t get me wrong, but in this case, money buys comfort and time – the latter being priceless.
So you can imagine my amusement when Amelia insisted we go to Granada via the backpacker method. We took a taxi to the bus station, a shuttle to Managua, and a bus to Granada – costing us about five dollars less than a direct shuttle would have, and effectively wasting a couple more hours. Not to mention, now having an Aryan-looking girl completely blew my cover and had the locals rip us off unapologetically – something which, by that time, I seemed to have become immune to. But anyways, yes, I am sooo glad I’m now this salt-of-the-earth, luxury-be-damned type of person.
If not for that, the trip was memorable for another reason – finally off the bus, I absent-mindedly forgot my big bag in the cargo hold and went on my merry way. Had it not been for Amelia, I would’ve ended up begging on the streets – most of my belongings (including my credit card and passport) inside the bag.
Granada: The Great Sultana
Also in keeping with my new persona, I was now staying in hostels. Mostly cause of Amelia, but also kinda because I had gotten used to the dorm at Underwater Vision and to meeting new people.
Admittedly, I still looked forward to being on my own again and having my very own private room, if only for a short while, but after being on my own for so long before arriving to Utila, it felt really nice to be travelling with someone, especially since it was really good company. So now, fully settled into our twelve-bedded dorm, we were ready to go and explore yet another city.
And Granada? Oof. For me, it is hands down the most charming colonial city I’ve been to on this journey – rivalling only Cartagena in my head. The classic colonial houses I had gotten so used to are so much more vividly colourful and better taken care of here – with the usual disorganisation and chaos taking a back seat.
The city, which was founded in 1524, is referred to as La Gran Sultana, owing to the fact it was built with Moorish and Andalusian influences. Understandably, it is one of the most important cities in Nicaragua, being one of the country’s main highlights for tourists. Here, it feels as if time stands still, with everyone idly going about their business – the locals seemingly part of the very fabric of the city, and horse-drawn carriages adorned with pink ribbons trotting along the cobblestoned roads. Just strolling through the streets filled me with a peace unlike any other I had experienced whilst roaming a city.
We walked towards the city centre, always in awe of the streets. The central park, admittedly, left a bit to be desired, but as always, the vibrancy of Granada’s people made up for what it lacked in trees and architecture. With the cathedral standing right in front of it, it was still a nice place to chill and hang out.
From there, we made our way to Calle La Calzada – a long street lined with colourful buildings, lamp posts, and mosaics on the ground showing different scenes, such as a horse-drawn carriage and the cathedral. All in all, I think this was my favourite place in Granada.
As the sun began to set, we made our way to the Iglesia La Merced – a church built in Baroque style that contrasts with the nearby buildings. There, we climbed the bell tower to enjoy the sunset as the soft light illuminated the beautiful architecture of the city.
