Maritime Alps – Day 5: The Final Stretch
MARITIME ALPS
Day 5: The Final Stretch
August 27, 2024
PART I
As with any other trek I have ever done, waking up on the last day came with this bittersweet feeling of pride for having made it this far, and anguish cause it’d all be over soon.
Luckily, the weather was on our side. A soft, golden light painted the granite cliffs above us, with a light layer of mist rolling over Lago del Chiotas. The air was fresh and crisp, and there were no signs of rain.
The trail to Lago della Rovina, the lake we had sighted the day before, featured a steep descent alongside the dam wall of Chiotas, following a series of switchbacks that offered us splendid views of the lake below throughout. While the land at the top was somewhat barren, probably due to the altitude and the herds of sheep and goats feeding on the vegetation, the landscape began to soften as we got closer to the lake, with the entire area eventually becoming covered in forest.
As we neared the lake, the air became thicker, warmer and more fragrant with pine and wet soil. It was evident that we had entered a lusher Alpine environment, with forests, waterfalls and streams from the lake making for the most picturesque of walks.
Here, we had a few more animal encounters: a huge ibex eyeing me curiously before running off towards the lake, and a herd of donkeys and horses grazing in a pasture nearby. It was all so idyllic and tranquil!
Lago della Rovina
The emerald lake, surrounded by mountains and a rocky shore dotted with alpine grasses, wildflowers and scattered stones, was truly a sight to behold. Along its banks sat a few fishermen, peacefully enjoying their morning, seemingly without a care in the world.
This felt like the perfect place to mark the transition from the wild solitude we had gotten used to over the previous few days back to inhabited land. This part of the trail also helped soften whatever animosity was left between Alessia and me, especially when she recounted all the times she used to come here fishing with her late father. The journey that led us here might have been long and fraught with all sorts of drama, but at the end of the day, she was still my ride or die, and, for one, I’m glad I had shared this experience with her.
As we enjoyed our break and ate our last remaining apples, we casually chatted with some of the fishermen as they prepared to take their catch back home, with one of them having caught a bucketful of trout. Oh, and we also got to play around with the two cutest dogs they had brought along: a Koolie and a Bavarian Mountain Hound. So, so cute!
Back to Entracque
The rest of the way back to Entracque was uneventful, if not boring. The trail was an asphalt road through the forest, meandering alongside the streams that feed into the Gesso River.
With the Maritime Alps highlights now behind us, it was just a very long walk that took us right past Lago della Piastra, where we had parked the car. There, we gave each other a congratulatory high five and a super tight hug. Finally, we had accomplished what we had set out to do. It may not have been the most gruelling of treks, but it certainly wasn’t an easy one either. Beyond the physical demands, we had also faced and overcome our fair share of emotional challenges. So yeah, we did good.
Starved and famished, our one and only thought was food. We headed to a fancy restaurant in Entracque and had the most delicious wild boar stew, along with a couple of beers and an Aperol Spritz, of course.
PART II
Uomini e Lupi
Not wanting the adventure to be over just yet, we decided to stop by the Centro Faunistico Uomini e Lupi, a wildlife centre dedicated to the wolf population of the Maritime Alps and the broader relationship between humans and wolves.
The centre offers an interactive museum experience featuring exhibits that explore the biology and behaviour of wolves, the history of our relationship with them, and the myths, legends and cultural depictions surrounding them. Perhaps the most interesting part was learning how, during the twentieth century, wolves had almost disappeared from the Alps after centuries of persecution, hunting and conflict with humans. Legal protection and conservation efforts eventually allowed their numbers to recover, and by the 1990s, Italian wolves had begun recolonising the Western Alps and expanding into nearby countries such as France and Switzerland.
The museum also details the heartwarming story of Ligabue, a male Italian wolf who became a symbol of resilience and the natural return of wolves to the Alps. After being struck by a car in Emilia, he was rescued, rehabilitated and fitted with a GPS collar. Upon release, Ligabue embarked on an extraordinary journey, travelling from the Apennines to the Maritime Alps. His movements were meticulously tracked, providing invaluable data on wolf dispersal patterns and habitat connectivity. So wholesome!
After going around the museum, we then headed to the highlight of the centre: the wolf enclosure. The fenced area on the mountainside serves as a home to rescued wolves that cannot be reintroduced to the wild. The staff emphasised that sightings could not be guaranteed, given that the wolves might hide or seek shelter away from the observatory. When that happens, many visitors apparently leave the premises disappointed, dishing out bad reviews. As silly as that might be, given how unpredictable nature is, Alessia and I could not quite share such an experience.
There, in flesh and blood, we could see at least five of the majestic beasts. While we could only observe them from afar and in a controlled environment, it was still an incredible experience. They are such gorgeous beings!
Lago Brocan and the Third Lake
From this vantage point, we could also see another grand lake, Lago della Rovina, one of the main highlights for the following day. Instead of going down, we continued making our way around Chiotas.
It was still quite early by the time we arrived back at the lodge. We had a coffee and a light snack, then immediately resumed our hike to Lago Brocan. This one, unlike Chiotas, is a smaller, natural alpine lake of glacial origin. The hauntingly beautiful viridian hue of the lake matches the lush vegetation covering the surrounding mountainside. Upon seeing this wonder, I found myself thinking how absolutely amazing it is that two completely different landscapes can exist just a few metres apart. Oh, the universe. You impressive little thing.
Our aim for this hike was not to go around the lake, but to find the “third lake”. While most people assume the third lake is the much larger Lago della Rovina, the locals told us they use the term to refer to a seasonal pool formed by snowmelt and runoff, one that might or might not be present during summer.
As we climbed above Brocan in search of this fabled lake, we were quite sceptical about our quest, though we still considered ourselves lucky enough to be witnessing such views. Throughout, we were kept in awe by the lake below us, and, once we gained enough elevation, we could also appreciate Lago del Chiotas in the background. Seeing the two of them aligned reminded me of the two small lakes at Colle di Fenestrelle we had seen the day before.
At a certain point, we reached a boulder-strewn alpine meadow with vibrant patches of green grass and a shallow stream flowing gently, threading its way through the rocks and grassy mounds. A thin waterfall cascading down a rocky slope in the background fed the stream. It was the most peaceful and serene area we had encountered thus far, fully isolated from everything. The perfect place to enjoy our apples.
Given that this was the closest thing we had encountered to a lake, we assumed we had made it. That said, we decided to push on a little further in the hope of reaching one of the higher passes. Unfortunately, it was at this point that the weather started to rear its ugly head and the pesky, ominous grey clouds began chasing us. We decided to err on the side of caution and turn back, knowing how bad it could get. And thank God we did, as pretty much the second we got back to the refuge, all hell broke loose and a downpour started. Just as predicted, I might add.
Storms, Scopa and Serendipity
Speaking for myself, the afternoon was my kind of heaven. After lunch, another charcuterie board, we spent a few hours chatting and playing Scopa again.
Then we went up to our room, each had a nap and read a bit. You see? Compromise. Then we went back downstairs, had dinner, polenta again, no comment, and played some more Scopa. When we eventually got bored of that, I took the reins and suggested we play Ellen DeGeneres’ Heads Up. It’s practically a glorified game of charades, though it’s been my go-to ever since it was released. And lemme just say, it’s always been a hit.
So much so that a bunch of German trekkers joined us. It was two ladies and three guys, all in their sixties. We split into teams: men versus women. Care to guess who came out on top? Alright, alright. I’ll stop showing off now.
After the game, we all sat down and had a beer. They told us they were working on a project: the GTA. Each year, they’d all take a week or so off and head to the Alps, each time covering a different section of the trail. With the GTA spanning around 1,000 kilometres, it had taken them decades to finish most of it. And, much like Marika the previous day, this was their final trek. So, so inspiring. Also, so serendipitous, the fact that we met all of them on my first Alpine trek when it was gonna be their last.