Maritime Alps – Day 1: The Trek Begins
MARITIME ALPS
Day 1: The Trek Begins
August 23, 2024
I could hardly believe it, but finally, it was time. Ah, to be kitted out with a trekking bag, a bandana wrapped around my head and my feet jammed inside Blister 2.0. What a feeling.
It’d be my first time properly trekking in Europe. That said, it wouldn’t be my first time in the Alps, having previously hiked Drachenwand in Austria, which forms part of the Northern Limestone Alps. As Alessia’s grandpa had explained to us, the Alps stretch around 1,200 kilometres across Monaco, France, Switzerland, Italy, Liechtenstein, Germany, Austria and Slovenia. The highest point of the entire mountain range is Mont Blanc, which straddles the French-Italian border.
Alessia and I would be hiking across the Maritime Alps, the southernmost part of the Alps, located between the Italian regions of Piedmont and Liguria and the French region of Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur. As with most mountain ranges, the Maritime Alps contain numerous peaks and passes, and by following the trail Alessia’s grandpa had mapped out for us, we’d be visiting a few of them.
Not knowing our fitness levels, and with the weather being unpredictable, he had spared us the toughest parts of the area, something which irked me at first. But, like he said, we could always come back and do more if we liked it. We’d never be able to explore all of them anyway. Or at least he hadn’t, despite spending a lifetime climbing over them.
Entracque: The Door to the Alps
It took around an hour’s drive to get to Entracque, a small town in the Valle Gesso of the Maritime Alps.
Apart from being a quaint town with charming buildings and cobblestone roads that attract tourists wanting to explore the surrounding valley and mountains, the area also boasts a massive pumped-storage hydroelectric power station. This uses nearby reservoirs, including Lago della Piastra, to store and generate power.
The lake was the first natural wonder we set our eyes on, with its glacier-blue water creating the most incredible contrast against the surrounding verdant mountains. Taking a deep breath in, I could finally allow myself to absorb it all and embrace the new adventure as we took our first steps and started our trek.
Forest Trails and Alpine Quiet
The first part of the trail was pretty much a dirt track through a larch, oak and beech forest, with a gradual ascent along the Gesso stream. The 9-kilometre route kept us entertained throughout, with streams of water, lichen-covered rocks and all kinds of trees and shrubs making for a nice and easy walk.
From European garden spiders to large wall brown butterflies, from cobweb houseleeks to Hungarian widow flowers, the hike thus far was uneventful at best, though pleasant. It wasn’t too demanding either, though the occasional steep incline did make us break a sweat.
Midway to the mountain lodge where we’d be sleeping, we found a spot by the river where we stopped to relax for a bit. We also had some time for some seated yoga, our tight bodies enjoying a much-needed stretch. Then, as per tradition, I had my apple. Eating one in such a scenic spot took me back to my days in Patagonia, one of the best times of my life.
I still look back on those days with pure nostalgia, wishing I could be in those mountains for the rest of my life. Especially that one hike on the Vinciguerra Glacier in Ushuaia, Argentina. No other trek had come even close to giving me such a rush. Perhaps it’s cause it had been my first solo trek and I was completely on my own for the most part. Also, it was my first time hiking on a friggin’ glacier!
Non-Solo Travelling
Trekking with Alessia had been pleasant so far. We seemed to have the same level of fitness, and neither of us showed signs of slowing down.
She did, however, not shut up for one second. Whilst I usually enjoy listening to her rambling on about all her drama – given that she’s a very Italian Italian – I kinda also wanted to enjoy the sound of nature. I’m surrounded by people and noise 24/7 back home. I’d find myself craving these trips to get away from it all whenever things got too much. The silence and solitude would sort of replenish me and give me enough strength to go at it once again. This trip, I slowly came to realise, probably wouldn’t serve that purpose. Still, if anyone was gonna ruin my silence, I was glad it was her. Also, company can be nice. I usually realise that whenever I get to the checkpoint and have no one to share the experience with!
After some two hours on the trail, we had already arrived at the lodge, Rifugio San Giacomo. Sitting at the foot of the mountain, right by the river, it seemed like the ideal resting spot for weary travellers. After a celebratory beer and some snacks – which we didn’t feel we had earned just yet – we left our day bags at the lodge and headed out once again to explore the surrounding area.
The Search for Pra del Rasur
Alessia’s grandpa had told us about a prairie called Pra del Rasur that was usually full of chamois. Try as we might, we couldn’t find the damn place.
That said, our search for the meadow did take us to some incredible spots. We crossed over a bridge to get to the former royal hunting lodges used by King Vittorio Emanuele II in the 19th century, and we also came across another building now used as a Salesian summer school. Eventually, we reached a mountainside with the most incredible views, where we sat down and relaxed for a bit, knowing we had the rest of the day to head back and hang out.
Once back at the refuge, we did a quick yoga session to stretch it all out and unwind. Then came dinner, locally caught trout and lasagne. Yum. A hot shower. Luxury. And finally, sleep in our cosy room. Much better than camping!