Antigua – Day 1: A Colonial Dream
ANTIGUA
Day 1: A Colonial Dream
October 15, 2022
As much as I hated leaving Atitlán, my next destination wouldn’t have me sulking around for long. A short microbus ride took me to the city of Antigua, where I’d be spending the next couple of days.
Once at the hotel I’d be staying in, I was just about ready to check in when I realised I couldn’t quite do that – on account of having misplaced my credit card, and my wallet, and my bag. You see, during this trip I had the big backpack with everything, a smaller one for daytime exploration, and a tiny banana bag that was practically my lifeline and BFF. Suddenly, I realised I’d forgotten my BFF on the van. It was an instant mix of shock, horror, and desperation. Me, the most organised person I’ve ever met, forgetting something so essential. It had my wallet with cash and my credit card, ID and driving license. It also had my earphones, and – oh my god – my chapstick! “Not only am I gonna spend the night on the road, I’m gonna spend the night with chapped lips!” I jested to the concierge.
I don’t know how I didn’t have a panic attack right then. Instead, I calmed down, called the hostel in San Pedro (through which I booked the shuttle), who gave me the company’s number, who gave me the driver’s number, who finally told me that Sally – my roommate from the same hostel – had taken it with her and had literally just called to get my number. I never sighed so hard in my life.
I left my bags at the hotel and sped to meet Sally at hers. Pretty sure I left a cloud of dust behind as I shuffled over uneven cobblestones through the city centre right to her lobby.I found her sitting patiently on the lobby couch – a holy glow emanating all around her, a halo hovering above her beautiful, beautiful head, her wings fluttering about. I thanked her a thousand times and apologised a thousand more before we parted ways. There’s still good people around…
A Colonial Dream
After that debacle, I finally got to explore the city. The city of Antigua was one of a series of capital cities in Guatemala that the Spanish tried to establish. After floods, earthquakes and eruptions destroyed most, the capital moved to present-day Guatemala City. Those who stayed behind, maybe out of pride or nostalgia, continued calling it Antigua Guatemala – or Old Guatemala. Over time, the provincial town flourished into one of the country’s top tourist hotspots. That said, seismic activity still ravages it occasionally.
It felt like ages since I’d been in a landlocked place not surrounded by jungle or water. My last one was probably Oaxaca, Mexico. Antigua is kinda similar – with colourful colonial and baroque buildings and cobbled streets – though this one more picturesque – if I may say so myself – especially with the active Volcán de Agua puffing plumes in the background.
Arguably the most famous and photogenic spot in Antigua is the Arco de Santa Catalina. The huge yellow arch was built in 1694 to connect the Santa Catalina convent to the school across the road, so nuns could cross without being seen, thus not compromising their oath of seclusion. If one can get over the hundreds of posing tourists, the arch is truly a wonderful work of art, with a tower jutting up from its centre featuring a clock in the middle. From the north, you get a postcard view of the arch framing Volcán de Agua and the colourful colonial skyline. From the south, the church of La Merced replaces the volcano – an equally mesmerising view.
Most landmarks are close to each other. La Merced church features two bell towers and a yellow, intricately detailed façade with white floral patterns, columns, and statues. The interior is unimpressive, but the convent’s courtyard boasts a huge colonial-style fountain shaped like a water lily – known as the Fountain of the Fish. Equally grand are the ruins of old baroque churches like La Candelaria and Nuestra Señora del Carmen, which were mostly razed by earthquakes, leaving just parts of their façades behind.
Between wandering off the beaten path, hanging out at the central park, visiting artisanal markets, and sipping some of the best coffee at charming cafés, Antigua felt like a much-needed break from nature – something I never thought I’d say!
Having said that, I still managed a green escape with a short hike up Cerro de la Cruz – the Hill of the Cross – for a spectacular panoramic view of the city, especially at sunset.
