San Agustín Lanquín – Day 2: Hurricane Julia
SAN AGUSTÍN LANQUÍN
Day 2: Hurricane Julia
October 10, 2022
I was told that my arrival in Lanquín was accompanied by that of Hurricane Julia too. Duh, of course it was! At that point, I had redubbed my alter ego to Hurricane Hunter. I’d been trailing hurricanes and tropical storms since Mexico – though I’d been lucky enough not to get caught in one (to be completely fair on Mother Nature).
Timing was always an issue for me. I remember waiting to tell the girl I was practically in love with how I felt about her – until after she found herself a boyfriend. I decided to become a surgeon two years into college, whilst studying English and philosophy. And, most distressing of all – every huge, life-altering moment I’ve ever had has always coincided with even huger, more life-altering moments my closest friends would be going through – meaning my experiences would be overshadowed. That’s probably another reason why I’ve always found solace in journalling.
Well, to further expand my list of unlucky timing, the massive rainfall that Julia brought with her raised the water levels of the Cahabón River in Lanquín so much that it made it impossible for me to visit one of the places I had been most excited about – Semuc Champey. The name means “where the river hides under the stones” in Q’eqchi’ Maya, referring to a limestone bridge located over the Cahabón River, topped with a series of turquoise pools. Visitors come to marvel at the natural wonder, swim in the surreal water, or, better yet, do both. But the water levels had risen so high that the place might as well have been renamed Champey Semuc, as the stones were now hidden under the river.
Another thing I missed out on was spelunking in the Grutas de Lanquín, a limestone cave system that was practically drowned by the floodwaters. Oh – and there was yet another cave all the locals insisted I visit around 6 PM, when fruit bats swarm out of it in unison to go snack. You stand just inside the entrance and feel the brush of hundreds of bats as they dart past you. Sounded unmissable. But I had to pass, thanks to the torrential rain.
Not that I didn’t try, mind you. I moved some things around and decided to stay an extra night in Lanquín in the hope the rain would stop. Most locals were uncertain at best about this, and – spoiler alert – they were right to be.
Strolling Around Lanquín
As disappointed as I might have been, I can’t say I was too distraught. By that point, I had made peace with the idea that there’d be loads of things I wouldn’t get to see, and that most of it would be out of my control. That’s something I learned back when I couldn’t go to the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary.
What was in my control, though, was how to spend the time I’d have when I’d find myself unable to go anywhere. When the rain would be too heavy, I had made it a habit to stay locked in my hotel room – reading, writing, and getting some much-needed rest. When the skies cleared a little, I’d resume my planned activities. And so, the second the rain cleared up, I headed into town and roamed around – even if I couldn’t do the things I had planned.
There were a couple of observations I made while exploring the town of Lanquín. First off, most roads are on an incline, which, when combined with the rain, mud from ongoing roadworks, and cobblestone pavements, doesn’t lend itself too well to maintaining any sort of grip. I genuinely lost count as to the number of times I tripped and fell. You’d think it’s just me being the uncoordinated klutz I usually am – but nope. I saw plenty of locals sharing the same fate.
Second, most people I passed were wearing traditional clothing. Men wore simple or patterned shirts and pants. Women wore colourful, frilled blouses with zigzag or floral patterns, often adorned with rhinestones, and long, equally decorative belts and skirts. One local explained that this style, called traje típico, is mostly worn by those of Q’eqchi’ Maya descent – who, unlike in most other parts of Guatemala, make up the majority in Lanquín.
Third? Dogs, man. So, so many stray dogs! I think that’s partly why I fell in love with the town. Always accompanied by a pack of dogs, I walked aimlessly for hours – just soaking in the churches, the markets, and the colourful buildings – all nestled among the lush jungle surrounding the town.
