Torres del Paine – Day 1: W Trek Loading
TORRES DEL PAINE
Day 1: W Trek Loading
April 01, 2023
Borne out of an idle mind, the idea of visiting the most famous area in Patagonia was one I made on a whim – much like going on a cruise to Antarctica. After my very first trek back in 2017, I discovered a new dimension to my life, one that opened up a whole new world where I felt right at home. Suddenly, all the things I’d see on TV or hear about from intrepid adventurers were within reach. Even I could do something like that if I really put my mind to it.
And now… now I was ready for one final, foolish, crazy adventure – a five-day solo trek in Torres del Paine National Park. Its name, meaning Blue Towers, is derived from the Aonikenk language and refers to the blue hues of the mountain range. Having booked the trek months prior and never once looking back on that decision, I found myself feeling almost embarrassed when I heard about all the headaches fellow backpackers were facing – reserving campsites to pitch their own tents or buying cooking supplies to prepare their own food. Instead, I’d splurged on an all-inclusive programme where I’d be sleeping in lodges around the park, with all my meals prepared for me. I felt like a proper princess.
Truth be told, I didn’t quite want that. By now, I kinda felt like doing it the rough-and-tough way – I knew I could handle it. I’d set up tents before, I could cook a decent (potato-based) meal, and it would’ve made for a cooler story anyhow. Despite that, I was constantly running into travellers who couldn’t do the full trek due to logistical issues, so at least I had that going for me.
I’d be doing the W Trek, so named because the trailheads form a W shape across the park, covering a total distance of around 75 kilometres. My original intention had been to do the O Trek – an eight-day circuit that loops around the entire park – but unfortunately, my schedule wouldn’t allow it, as March availability had already been fully booked.
Pre-Trek Jitters
The night before the start of this adventure, a group of other bougie travellers and I were invited to a briefing at the tour agency’s office.
There, the itinerary was explained and we were walked through the logistics – things like meal times and where to leave our bags before heading out on day-long hikes. While the rest of the group worried about steep ascents and long trekking days, I couldn’t help but tremble with excitement. After overcoming so many challenges over the previous months, I felt more than ready for what lay ahead. As others voiced concerns about Patagonia’s harsh weather and unforgiving climate, I found myself welcoming the prospect of torrential rain and relentless winds, eager to rise to the challenge. I could hardly contain my enthusiasm.
My only real concern was how badly prepared I seemed compared to the rest of the group – no trekking poles, a tiny 30-litre backpack, and my worn-out hiking boots. I figured that by the end of this one, I’d probably have to retire poor old Blister, who’d dutifully carried me through the past seven years.
That night, sleep came only in fragments. I’d read nothing and seen no photos of the trail ahead, but after hearing so much about it from so many people, I knew it wouldn’t disappoint. Part of me felt that nothing I’d encounter would ever top the Vinciguerra Glacier back in Ushuaia – still my favourite trek to date. I expected Chilean Patagonia to feel similar to what I’d experienced in El Chaltén and El Calafate, and I was more than happy to spend five days in a place I could already imagine describing as heaven on Earth.
Still, I tried to keep my expectations in check. Natalie 2, who had just returned from the trek herself, told me all about the brutal conditions she’d faced – ninety-kilometre-per-hour winds threatening to blow her off ridgelines and thick clouds swallowing up the main viewpoints along the trail. While I hoped that wouldn’t be my fate, by then I’d learned to appreciate nature’s unpredictability, so I felt ready for whatever it decided to throw my way.
Trek Loading
As excited as I was to finally begin, the first day would consist of little more than buses and shuttles ferrying us to the national park, where I’d officially start trekking the following morning.
Fully rested after three days of barely doing anything in Puerto Natales, I found myself at the bus station alongside an Indian family I’d met the day before during the briefing. With three paediatricians and one general surgeon among them, I immediately felt at ease, slipping effortlessly into conversations about medicine and travel. Having moved to California some twenty years earlier, they all lived close to one another, with some even working at the same practice. While I found this fascinating, they seemed equally intrigued by my journey – barraging me with questions and asking for travel recommendations – something I was more than happy to provide. Still, I gently made it clear that I intended to do the trek entirely on my own.
After about an hour and a half on the bus, my nap was abruptly interrupted by the vehicle slamming on its brakes. Assuming we’d arrived, I grabbed my belongings and rushed outside, only to be greeted by the breathtaking sight of Laguna Amarga. Its jade-coloured waters contrasted sharply with the dull green hills surrounding it and the icy mountain summits looming above.
Refugio Torre Central
As it turned out, the stop was purely scenic. Once back on the bus, it took just a few more minutes to reach the park entrance, followed by yet another shuttle to the visitor centre.
A short walk later, we arrived at our first stop – Refugio Torre Central. This would be our base for the first two nights, an alpine-style lodge boasting a spacious dining room, a warm and cosy lounge area, and small but comfortable dormitories. As much as I’d complained about doing this trek the bougie way, I couldn’t deny how grateful I was to be staying here instead of camping out in the cold Patagonian wilderness.
Once I’d settled in and got my hands on the welcome pisco sour (hey, I did say it was a fancy package), I stepped outside for a smoke. Sitting there, I could hardly believe this was my courtyard – Monte Almirante Nieto and the Torres massif towering above me, their imposing faces almost mocking, as if they already knew the suffering I’d soon endure climbing them. I couldn’t help but grin back. “I’m coming for you,” I muttered. Five days of ascents and descents, five days of walking, climbing, and scrambling. I was ready for every bit of it.
At dinner, I found myself seated with David, an Argentinian guy who’d been my roommate in Puerto Natales and who would only be doing two of the hikes, as well as Enzo, an Argentinian influencer here for an internet detox. Once I finished eating, I quickly excused myself, grabbed a cup of coffee, and stepped outside to watch the sunset – a soft pink veil settling over the mountains before night fully claimed the sky, revealing thousands of stars scattered across the darkness.
Day one:
- Weather:
- Sunny and cloudy
- Wind: E 5kts
- Temperature: 8°C
- Weather:
- Position:
- 50°57’56.8″S
- 72°51’57.1″W
- Position: