From sliding down the black ash of Cerro Negro to the fiery crater of Telica. A journey through bump rides, sulphurous fumes, and a sunrise worth the burn.
Léon – Day 2: Cathedrals, Volcanoes & Cravings
From rooftop volcano views to the cellars of the white cathedral. A journey through colonial León, hungry searches, and plates of gallo pinto.
Léon – Day 1: Border Scares & Nostalgia
Leaving Utila behind, we tackle a nerve-wracking border crossing into Nicaragua. A late-night arrival in León brings relief and lingering nostalgia.
NICARAGUA – HISTORY
From the ancient footsteps of the Nahua to the fires of the Sandinista revolution. A journey through conquest, dictatorship, and the struggle for democracy.
NICARAGUA – PEOPLE
From the diverse voices of the Caribbean coast to the rhythms of the marimba. A journey through mestizo heritage, indigenous roots, and the vibrant Nica spirit.
NICARAGUA – LAND
From the fertile valleys of the Pacific to the depths of the Mosquito Coast. A journey through cloud forests, volcanic arcs, and the shark-filled waters of Lake Nicaragua.
NICARAGUA – COUNTRY
From the ancient Nahuatl roots to the symbolism of the five volcanoes. A concise guide to Nicaragua’s name, flag, government, and economic landscape.
Reflections: After Honduras
From the last of the Mayan ruins in Copán to the “hedonistic sloth” of seven weeks in Utila. A journey through whale sharks, illegal visas, and the impermeable change of becoming a divemaster.
Utila – Week 8, Day 2: Beyond the Bubbles
From the “ripping pain” of saying goodbye to the “desolate and empty” dorms of Room 16. A journey through seven weeks of island life, the final ferry ride, and the struggle to hold onto every grain of memory.
Utila – Week 8, Day 1: A Final Bow in Utila
From the “accidental illegal immigrant” to a legend in a divemaster shirt. A journey through seven weeks of “firsts,” impossible dreams made real, and the hardest goodbye of all.