I.I.VII.I – Mérida: Day One & Two
MÉRIDA
I.I.VII.I – DAY ONE & TWO
24/08/22 & 25/08/22
Yep, you guessed it. Yet another bus trip – this time to Mérida; a city in the state of Yucatán. Pretty much like in my other stops, I’d have three days here, though this time round I had plans only for one.
I spent the first afternoon going around the city centre, admiring the streets and buildings around the city. Whilst the city centre looks similar to those I had previously visited, there was one distinguishing feature that caught my attention. Scattered around the streets of Mérida are these coupled white chairs that are facing each other referred to as the “Sillas Tu y Yo”, meaning “You and Me Chairs” that are usually used by couples of friends to have a chat. Needless to say, being a solo traveller and a single one at that, I didn’t get much use out of them.
Then I headed to the Paseo de Montejo; an impressive avenue lined by trees and the most astounding mansions one could ever set their eyes on. This was named after Francisco de Montejo; the Spanish Conquistador who founded the city. Though I did walk around quite a bit, the cathedral and most museums I was actually interested in visiting were closed.
There was also some kind of festival going on which I passed on only cause I needed to rest. In fact, Mérida was the first city I felt like I neglected a bit. I would’ve never done such a thing before that! Whilst I wouldn’t say I was feeling exhausted and in need of a break, I did feel like I needed a slow day. I had been going at it, day in, day out ever since I had started travelling. And, by then, I have to admit that I had already visited my fair share of cathedrals and museums, so going without a couple more felt like it’d be no big deal.
At the same time, I didn’t want that to turn into a habit. I didn’t ever want to get accustomed to certain things so much so that I’d stop appreciating them. Though certain places might look similar. each and every one of them has their own history, their own meaning, their own style. I promised myself I’d do my best to visit as many as I could regardless.
Sisal Mangrove
The following day, I booked the first tour my hotel concierge recommended me without so much as asking one question. Just like that, I found myself in a 4×4 together with Francisco the guide, and this sixty something year old Peruvian lady called Pina. Whilst she usually travels around with her husband, this year he’d be passing on it given he was still undergoing rehab following a knee operation. Her son would join her later during the week, and so, in the meantime, she was going around the Yucatán state on her own. What a badass!
Our trip would take us to Sisal; a seaport town. We started off by getting on a kayak with a local who gave us a ride right to the mangrove which form a network of lagoons called petene. Mangroves, we were explained, are important for maintaining water quality as they trap excess nutrients, pollutants and sediments which are especially important in coastal areas as they help coral colonies flourish.
The contrast between the green leaves of the trees and the orange colour of the muddy water is something I had never had the opportunity to admire, and lemme tell you, it makes for a lovely view. During the ride, we also got to see all kinds of birds including grey herons and a couple more I couldn’t identify (should have become an ornithologist, huh?). Having said that, the ones we were on the lookout for seemed to elude us – flamingos. Our disappointment was quickly forgotten as we headed right into the depths of the mangrove where thousands of mosquitoes started to feast on our flesh.
Fifty pounds of blood lighter, we headed deeper and deeper until we finally got to a small pool of crystalline, azure, blue water. This, the guide told us, is called the ojo de agua; which literally translates to the ‘eye of the water’. This lake, consisting of freshwater derived from rainfall, diverges along the mangrove to join salt water from the sea, giving rise to brackish water in which the mangrove and thousands of other animal species thrive.
Playa Sisal
After the kayak tour, we headed to Playa Sisal. In some way, it felt very comforting being at the beach with Pina. Kinda like going to the beach with my grandma, something I hadn’t done in a couple of decades!
I left her to her own devices in order to get some snorkelling done. From seashells to cowries, from murexes to scallops, this beach seemed to have everything hidden in its sands. A young boy also pointed out a couple of starfish to me and went so far as to dive down for them in order for me to take a photo of them.
Little did either of us know that when these creatures are taken out of the water (even if it’s just for a second), they could literally end up with air bubbles in their circulatory system which could effectively kill them. Plus, when they are picked up, their stomachs retract and they stop feeding – not to mention the fact that bacteria (as well as sunscreen and bug spray chemicals which might have adverse effects) can be transferred onto them. Of course, I learnt this after the whole debacle, and, to this day, I am still mad at myself for not knowing it before!
After collecting some (already dead) seashells to add to my collection, I took them up to shore to show Pina. Much to my surprise she said she collected them too. After dividing the loot, she decided we’d go for a walk along the coast in search of more treasure. We spent over an hour scouring the sand to find the most beautiful shells.
I have to admit this left me a bit emotional. As a young kid, I’d collect seashells every time I’d go to the beach. Hell, I’d collect anything; from soda and beer bottle caps to stamps, from public phone cards to coins, from Pokémon cards to Yu-Gi-Oh cards, Pogs, marbles, buttons, anything and everything! Then somehow, along the way, I stopped doing it. I stopped being curious. I stopped searching. I guess we can blame such monotony and conformity to adolescence and growing up.
Well, my journey in life over the past few years had been one of apparent regression; one that made me feel more in tune with Kid Marius rather than Adolescent Marius – or Adult Marius for that matter. Spending hours trying to find seashells along the shore is a waste of time to most. But, much like one of the lessons of Le Petit Prince, this was me appreciating the beauty and meaning of something that for anyone who’s alienated, has neither. And to be sharing that moment with a sixty-something-year-old lady? It made it all the more priceless. So thank you Pina – for reaching out to my inner child, for sharing my curiosity, for appreciating such beauty!