I.I.V.II – Palenque: Day Two
PALENQUE
I.I.V.II – DAY TWO
20/08/22
The following day, my travels would take me to the renown ruins of Palenque. The colectivo I rode on, an ancient white toaster van, chockfull of people, broke down three times along the way. Somehow, it managed to survive the trip, despite its door being unable to close – an innovative way to ventilate the vehicle, I must admit.
The second I got there, a swarm of tourist guides flocked around me, trying to see which one I’d choose. I felt just like a celebrity fending off paparazzi – all of them thinking harassing me would get me to take them up on their offer. While I’d usually go for the oldest and most experienced, this time I chose the youngest (but most importantly, cheapest). After having abused my monetary funds more than I should have, it was a concession I simply had to make. Luckily, Rico; a local guide with a few years of experience, proved to be a good pick.
The Ruins of Palenque
The city of Palenque, being the third biggest Mayan settlement after Calakmul in Campeche and Tikal in Guatemala, covers approximately 2.5 square kilometres although only around 2% of the ruins have been excavated as of yet. It was named Palenque, which means ‘plank’, by the Spaniards when they came across it in search for wood, owing to its dense jungle. Its original name, “Lakam’ha”, given by the Maya, actually meant “place of many waters” as a reference to the many rivers and waterfalls that surrounded the region.
Many a Mayan civilisation faced their untimely demise because of draughts and water scarcity – a problem the people of Palenque certainly didn’t have. Throughout its history, the city of Palenque was involved in many wars and conflicts, with Tikal being a strong ally and Calakmul the worst offender. That said, the city’s decline was a direct consequence of war against the city of Toniná.
The city was constructed back in 250BC, with a succession of kings and queens ruling the land from 430AD up to the end of the eighth century. Whilst female state-lords were a feature of Palenque’s dynasty, most were given male attributes. The city was brought to prominence during the reign of Kinich Janaab Pakal (Pakal I) who was revered as being the gods’ favourite and ruled the city for 68 years. Given that the normal life expectancy of Mayans at that time was around fifty years, Pakal was considered a demigod by most, having lived until the age of eighty.
According to Rico, his son, Kinich Kan Balam II, was the guy who came up with the number zero; a revolutionary prospect that changed the face of mathematics. I was a bit sceptical about this, mostly cause I had read otherwise. That said, Palenque’s people had vast knowledge and other reputable skills which they used to their advantage – say the city’s drainage system. Running under the entire city is a complex water system using advanced hydraulic engineering principles to drain the complexes, with the waste being used to fertilise surrounding agricultural land. This drainage system also protected the Mayans residing there from infectious diseases that were known to afflict other communities at the time.
After the brief overview of the once thriving city, Rico proceeded to show me around, starting our trail in the jungle. Whilst traversing through the dense foliage, one encounters many structures and residential areas, amongst which is a pelote court and the Bat Group where the elite used to live.
At the largest plaza, one can’t help but remain in disbelief as they come across the Palacio; a multi-level complex which was expanded and rebuilt over centuries, featuring multiple courtyards and a four-story tower which is aligned to the four directions of the universe and was probably used as an observatory. Some of the courtyards were used by the rulers in order to greet important people and to receive gifts, which would be placed upon large stone platforms. Others were used by warriors where they either trained or, at times of peace, meditated.
The Temple of Inscriptions, a nine-tiered pyramid with stucco carvings on the outside, is arguably the most important structure when it comes to archaeological wealth. This is where Pakal the Great’s sarcophagus was buried beneath a sealed passageway connecting the top of the temple to the ground. Pakal’s body was found adorned with a jade mask and necklace and surrounded by sculptures and stucco reliefs.
The sarcophagus is intricately carved, showing Pakal dressed in the corn god’s attire, sitting comfortably on a large ceiba tree above a two-headed serpent. Around the lid are drawings representing the sun, the moon and the planets. When viewed from the side, and with some of imagination, the ceiba tree can be thought of as a spaceship with Pakal riding over it – the planets on the edge of the lid showing his conquests. Some archaeologists go so far as to allude that this proves extra-terrestrial ties with the ancient Maya!
Next to the Temple of Inscriptions is another temple referred to as Temple XIII, or, more commonly, the Temple of the Red Queen where the remains of a woman covered in cinnabar; a red pigment, were found. Though her identity is to this day still unknown, it is thought that she might have been Pakal’s wife. Adjacent to this, is yet another temple, the Temple of Skull, in which the tomb of another unknown ruler was found.
Another notable complex is the Cross group which is thought to be the most important ritual space in Palenque, consisting of three temples each showing depictions of Balam II in different ritual contexts which recount the story of the creation of the universe, the birth of the gods and their chronicles. The Temple of the Foliated Cross is found at the top of a small hill surrounded by the jungle and is dedicated to K’awiil, protector of agriculture and the ruling dynasty. Then there’s the Temple of the Cross which features the celestial Smoking God, and the Temple of the Sun which has the nicest roof comb of all and is dedicated to K’inich Ajaw Pakal, or The Shield of the Lord of the Sun Face – so called after embodying the sun during its nightly voyage through Xibalba; a process which human sacrifices helped with.
Wandering around the entire site, I was left in awe both at how impressive the constructions are, and, more importantly, at how impressive the Mayans were. Surrounded by the florid, overgrown jungle, most of the unexcavated ruins still lay there, covered by thick layers of soil and vegetation, hiding their truths and stories. The paths once trodden by such a great civilisation are now used by tourists, the residential areas hosting iguanas, bats and birds. To be able to witness such cities in their prime…
More Waterfalls...
After the brief tour around the ruins of Palenque, I made haste to try and visit another highlight in the town’s surroundings – the falls of Misol Ha. Ater seeing those of Roberto Barrios, I have to admit that these were pretty unimpressive, with a little stream of water tumbling down from the middle of the jungle.
More to my liking were those of Agua Azul, though these l I can’t say I’ve experienced at their best given that the water was all brown and muddy cause of a storm. From other people’s accounts, it usually does live up to its name during the rest of the year, with the water being as azure as a sapphire! Having said that, swimming in the pool during a storm was still an incredible adventure in and of itself. Especially when I pulled an Indiana Jones and wandered into the jungle on the opposite side, with some locals having to come for me cause it’s allegedly “dangerous”. Well, they do know better.
