San Cristóbal de Las Casas – Day 3: Toniná Ruins
SAN CRISTÓBAL DE LAS CASAS
Day 3: Toniná Ruins
August 18, 2022
As one might expect, Chiapas is also home to various Mayan archaeological sites. Given the country’s rich historical patrimony, I had made it a point to visit as many ruins as I possible could. And so, on my last day in San Cristóbal de Las Casas, I’d be visiting the ancient city of Toniná.
The name Toniná comes from the Tzeltal language of the Mayan inhabitants and means ‘house of stone’. Evidence shows that the city started out as a settlement as far back as 800 BC, reaching the height of its power during the Late Classic period. What distinguishes these ruins from the rest, I would say, is their lack of popularity and relative peace and quiet away from flocks of tourists. In addition, whilst Mayans were generally known to be peaceful, those of Toniná were involved in multiple wars, especially with those in the surrounding regions of Palenque, in order to take control of various trading routes
The Ruins
Together with Sigifredo, my guide for the day, I set out on yet another archaeological tour. Upon entering the site, one has to walk along a path with fields on both sides where horses graze idly, before venturing into the depths of the jungle where the ruins lie. A large pelote court is encountered first, with statues of bowing men and jaguars serving as the rings through which the ball would pass, and disc markers representing certain special occasions and dates.
On the sides of the court, one can also observe statues of Mayans sitting cross-legged with their arms tied behind their backs. These, Sigifredo explained, represented captured rulers who would be playing the game and would most likely be sacrificed. On occasion, however, they would either be forgiven or given the choice to live out the rest of their days as slaves.
The Virtues of Stucco
A few steps away from the court is a huge plaza flanked by temples on all sides, with the Great Acropolis to the north, standing tall at 74 metres – higher than the Pyramid of the Sun in Teotihuacan. Unlike most other ruins, the guide explained, the temples of Toniná still have very well-preserved decorations made of stucco.
Stucco, he went on, is a type of plaster made from water and a binding agent such as mud or clay. The Maya made extensive use of this material, covering floors and exterior temple walls, and using it to create statues, masks, and reliefs. This mixture conferred several advantages, such as allowing for the application of natural pigments without damaging the stone beneath and offering protection to the underlying structures.
For all its virtues, stucco doesn’t fare well with the passage of time – which is exactly why the well-preserved structures in Toniná are a marvel. While most of the colour painted on the stucco walls has indeed worn off, the actual plaster remains largely intact in many areas, with traces of pigment that allow us to imagine how the city might have looked at its peak.
The Climb
Much to my surprise, we’d be climbing the Acropolis. I have to admit, I was a bit taken aback, knowing full well the impact erosion can have when people walk on such ancient structures. Even more surprising was the fact that, until just a few years ago, most pyramids could in fact be climbed – including those visited by thousands of tourists daily, such as the ones at Chichen Itza. Thankfully, legal reforms introduced during the COVID pandemic now forbid people from doing so. The ruins of Toniná, among a few others, are so relatively undisturbed by the general public that archaeologists themselves aren’t too concerned about it.
We’d be climbing all seven levels of the pyramid, which houses thirteen temples in total – the number associated with the sky deities. On the second level are three doors that lead into a labyrinth running straight through the entire structure, which in turn leads to all kinds of temples and tombs. Here, a cross-shaped window symbolising the four directions of the universe may be found. To reach the upper levels, narrow staircases and winding paths must be climbed, passing through various temples and even high-class residential areas. Getting lost among all these buildings while climbing the pyramid was exhilarating and mystifying at the same time, all the while trying to imagine how the ancient Maya once lived their daily lives.
On different levels are various important structures, including a plethora of friezes depicting the people’s victories over surrounding regions and supernatural manifestations of their gods – such as the Moon God portrayed as a skinned woman. In addition to these are several other temples, like the Palace of the Frets, recognisable by the zig-zag pattern across its façade.
My favourite was the mural of the Four Suns on the fifth level. This impressive frieze measures four by sixteen metres and is divided into four panels (one of which is completely destroyed) – each illustrating different depictions and phases of the sun. One immaculate panel depicts the Lord of the Dead with the abdomen of a cockroach, a skull for a head, a severed head in one hand, and a feathered serpent in the other. This figure might represent one of the gods of Xibalba, or perhaps a deity of the upper realm who transformed into a lord of the underworld at night after intense meditation to resolve some issue or another.
Needless to say, I could go on and on about every single detail we explored during the tour of the ruins. What deserves an honourable mention, apart from the site’s rich history and architecture, is the view from the top: a full panorama of the plaza and the surrounding mountains and jungle, with condors soaring overhead. Truly mystical. I mean, come on – imagine the pyramid in its full glory back at its peak… Covered in vibrant stucco, its citizens clad in colourful costumes, temples alive with ceremony and activity, all nestled within a lush, thriving jungle!
A Dirty Affair
Just like that, my stay in San Cristóbal was over too. Apart from the whole armed robbery thing, I can say my experience there was perfect – except for one tiny detail.
All throughout my trip so far, I’d been doing laundry in a way I’m sure most people would find despicable. I’d throw my clothes in the sink, add some detergent (hand wash, body wash, shampoo, or – on a particularly pathetic day – just soap lather), and attempt to scrub the sweat and dirt out of them. For the price of fifty cents, you can also buy a small bottle of bleach, which, I’ve come to learn, works magic on stained white clothes. Then I’d wring them out, hang them anywhere in the room I’d be staying in, and crank the AC on full-power dry mode (or, in a budget room, stick them in front of a fan). A process I’d come to love and cherish. Mindless work.
On my last day in San Cristóbal, I decided to treat myself and lug half my clothes to an actual laundrette… In hindsight, I should’ve stuck to my good ol’ humble ways. In case you didn’t know, using bleach on coloured T-shirts is not a good idea. Mainly because they end up with large, faded patches that look like a toddler’s first attempt at a tie-dye. Also, it turns out, if a washing machine runs on gas but the owner’s run out of it, the machine just stops working. I know – crazy! But wait, it gets better. Crazier still was the laundromat attendant’s solution: shut the shop and try again tomorrow. No call, no warning, no shame.
Given that I was leaving at the crack of dawn the next day, you can imagine my panic when I realised the clothes I’d be wearing for the next eight months were being held hostage. Six frantic phone calls later, I finally managed to ransom them back with the help of her neighbour, who witnessed the whole drama unfold from his doorstep like it was a telenovela. We agreed I’d pay half the stipulated amount – cause, you know, she had done half the job. Also, she refused to hand them over otherwise.
After the whole ordeal, I had to carry the soaked load of clothes – now weighing easily three times as much but with half the colour – back to my hotel. Needless to say, I probably wouldn’t be using any laundromats any time soon.