Oaxaca de Juárez – Day 3: Mezcal and Monte Albán
OAXACA DE JUÁREZ
Day 3: Mezcal and Monte Albán
August 15, 2022
My third day began with a tour that offered a glimpse into artisanal traditions and included a visit to an archaeological site. Alongside a bunch of other tourists, I found myself on yet another bus, being shuttled from one stop to the next.
First up was a tequila and mezcal tasting tour, where we were shown various types of agave plants and walked through the process of extracting and distilling the alcohol. Cool fact about the agave plant? Its leaves can be peeled back to reveal a fibrous skeleton that can be used as a paper of sorts – something the Mayans have done for generations. Another cool (and slightly more graphic) fact? The spiky tip of the agave leaf can be broken off and used for various purposes, including knitting, bloodletting, and piercing body parts – like nipples or penises – during religious rituals. Fun!
Monte Albán
Afterwards, we headed to Monte Albán – by far the most notable archaeological site in the area. The site is one of the oldest Mesoamerican cities and was built by the Zapotec civilisation around 500 BC. The city served as the socio-political and economic centre of the Zapotecs for about a millennium, with around 35,000 people living there at its peak. Around 750 AD, the city was abandoned for reasons unknown.
According to my guide Romario, the name Monte Albán was given later, and its etymology is still disputed. His preferred theory suggests it was named after the white flowers of the morning glory tree that covers the entire complex. Adding to the plant lore, he also told us that the sap of a very common tree in the area called copal was used by the ancient Maya and indigenous populations for its medicinal properties and as incense during certain rituals. I can totally understand why — after crushing the tiny green fruit, the most fragrant and pleasant aroma is released.
After a short walk from the entrance, we reached the core area of the ruins. The archaeological site is impressive, to say the least — consisting of numerous platforms, temples, and pyramids. The latter, according to Romario, are incorrectly referred to as such; the Spanish Conquistadors confused the pyramidal foundation structures that support the temples with the more familiar structures found in Egypt. Some of the temples and other overlying structures, Romario explained, were made of organic materials that have since degraded and worn away over time, – meaning they cannot be quite appreciated. Inside the pyramids are smaller versions, with the Zapotecs building one over the other in subsequent stages, somewhat like Matryoshka dolls.
Exploring the Site
The site consists of an artificially elevated area with the Gran Plaza at its centre, flanked by two large platforms on its north and south sides. Demonstrating his knowledge through practice, the guide clapped his hands, producing an echo that could be heard across the entire site. The way the Zapotecs constructed the complex – similar to most archaeological sites in Mesoamerica – allowed sound to carry over large distances. This, Romario explained, enabled rulers and high priests standing atop the elevated platforms to communicate with the people gathered below.
Other important buildings include El Palacio, where the elite once lived, and a structure adorned with slabs depicting dancing figures – who were actually slaves or captured rulers from neighbouring cities, squirming and contorting in pain after being genitally mutilated. These flank the sides of the plaza, alongside two pelote ballcourts and residential areas for the lower classes located on the outskirts. The houses were quite basic, typically around two-by-two metres in size, with thatched roofs. A slab of rock served as either a table or a bed, topped with dry palm leaves for cushioning. Some homes even featured baths carved out of rock.
At the centre of the plaza stands a large platform used for rituals and sacrifices. At a 45-degree angle from this is an arrow-shaped building that served as an observatory, reflecting the Zapotecs’ crucial knowledge of time and the seasons for their agricultural practices. While most of the complex is asymmetrical, the majority of structures are oriented at right angles, with the observatory being the only exception.
Ancient Customs
Another fascinating feature the guide told us about happens twice a year at Building P, located on the side of the plaza. On the 8th of May and the 5th of August, the sun passes directly over a hole in the ground that leads to an underground temple. This event is known as the zenithal passage of the sun. When it occurs, a beam of sunlight streams straight through the hole, illuminating the entire chamber below. When the guide showed us a video of this phenomenon, our jaws practically dropped. It looked like a waterfall of light – simply ethereal!
It was also here that I saw a pelote court for the very first time. Although pelote was primarily a Mayan tradition, the Zapotecs played a similar game, albeit on narrower courts than usual. According to the guide, the ballgame was a famous Mesoamerican tradition that likely originated with the Olmecs or Toltecs. Over the years, it has been known by many names, including pitz and pokolpok, used by different Mayan tribes.
The game is played on a double T-shaped court, featuring one hoop on each side through which players must pass a rubber ball. Sounds easy – just like basketball, right? Well, not quite. Players can only strike the ball using their hips, forearms, shoulders, and knees, though some versions allow bats or racquets. Another twist? The ball can weigh as much as four kilograms. Crazy!
Pelote could be purely recreational, but in a surprising twist of events, it was sometimes part of a ritual that ended in human sacrifice. However, it’s not as straightforward as it sounds. The person sacrificed was not the loser, as one might assume, but rather the winner – since the gods deserved the blood of the best. In fact, the winners were said to be honoured to give their lives in this way. The game was open to anyone, from high-class to low-class players. Captured enemies or rulers were also allowed to participate, as their heads were especially valued by the gods.
Walking through the court, I tried to imagine the players clad in traditional costumes, with crowds cheering them on. I asked Romario whether pelote is still played today, and, quite surprisingly, he said that it is. While the sport is nowhere near as popular as football, pelote remains a big deal in some parts of Mexico and is even being revived in others. Watching a recording of a pelote match only confirmed how difficult the sport is and made me appreciate the practice even more.
Moving On...
Just like that, my days in Oaxaca came to an end. By then, I had more or less gotten used to the idea of packing everything up and heading to a new destination as soon as I’d settled into one. I was certain this pace would get tiring in the long run, but for the time being, it felt invigorating – almost like a fresh burst of energy with every move.
That said, there was a little voice in the back of my mind asking whether this was truly the way to travel. Sure, with limited time, this whirlwind approach was the best way to see as much as possible of what these cities and towns had to offer. But at the same time, it felt like I wasn’t really absorbing the culture. To do that properly, I’d have to stay put in one place for months – maybe even years. Could a couple of days here and there really be enough? Would it be better to see less but experience more deeply? I was following my crazy schedule to the letter, almost effortlessly, yet I remained unconvinced regarding this aspect.