I.I.III.III – Oaxaca de Juárez: Day Three
OAXACA DE JUÁREZ
I.I.III.III – DAY THREE
15/08/22
My third day started off with a day-tour that would give me a glimpse of more artisanal traditions and a visit to an archaeological site. Together with a bunch of other tourists, I found myself on yet another tour bus being shuttled from one stop to the next.
First up was a tequila and mezcal tasting tour, where they had us going around different types of agave plants and described the process used to extract and distil the alcohol. Cool fact about the agave plant? The leaves can be peeled off to reveal a fibre skeleton which can be used as a paper – something the Mayans have used for generations! Another cool fact? Well, the spiky tip of the agave leave can be broken off and used for various things, such as knitting, blood-letting and piercing body parts such as the nipples and the penis during religious rituals (fun!).
Monte Albán
After, we headed to Monte Albán – the most notable archaeological site in the area by far. The site is one of the oldest Mesoamerican cities and was built by the Zapotec civilisation at around 500BC. The city was the socio-political and economic centre of these people for a millennium, with around 35,000 people living there at its peak. At around 750AD, the city was abandoned for some unknown reason.
According to my guide Romario, the name Monte Albán was one that was given later on, and its etymology is still disputed. His preferred theory explains that it was named after the white flowers of the morning glory tree that covers the entire complex. To add to the plant lore, he also told us that the sap of a very common tree in the area called copal was used by the ancient Maya and indigenous populations for its medicinal properties and as an incense during certain rituals. I can totally understand why that is the case – after crushing the tiny green fruit, the most fragrant and pleasant of aromas is released.
After a short walk, we then headed to the core area of the ruins. The archaeological site is impressive to say the least – one that consists of numerous platforms, temples and pyramids. The latter, according to Romario, are incorrectly referred to as such – with the Spanish Conquistadors confusing the pyramidal structures that act as a foundation to the actual temples with those found in Egypt. The temples and other overlying structures were composed of organic materials that have since degraded and worn away with time. On the inside of the pyramids are smaller versions, with the Zapotecs building one over the other in subsequent stages, kinda like Matryoshka dolls.
The site consists of an artificially elevated area with the Gran Plaza at its centre and two large platforms on its north and south sides. The guide, demonstrating his knowledge through practice, clapped his hands which resulted in an echo that could be heard from all over. The way the Zapotecs constructed the site, something which is similar to most archaeological sites in Mesoamerica, made it possible for sound to echo over large areas. This, he told us, allowed the rulers and the high priests standing on top of the elevated platforms to communicate with the people standing below.
Other important buildings, such as the El Palacio; where the elite used to live, and a building featuring various slabs showing dancing figures (who were actually slaves or captured rulers from neighbouring cities, squirming and contorting in pain after being genitally mutilated), flank its sides, with two pelote ballcourts and some residential areas where the lower-class people lived on the outside. These houses were quite basic, usually around two-by-two metres in size with a thatched roof above. A slab of rock would serve as either a table or a bed; over which they’d put on dry palm trees for cushioning. In some, baths carved out of rock could also be found.
Right at the centre of the plaza is one large platform which was used for rituals and sacrifices, and, at a 45-degree angle, an arrow-shaped building which was used by the Zapotecs as an observatory; with knowledge of time and the seasons being crucial to their agricultural practices. Whilst the entire complex is mostly asymmetrical, most structures are oriented to a 90-degree position, with the observatory being the only exception.
Another interesting feature the guide told us about, is something that happens twice a year over Building P that is found on the side of the plaza. Twice a year, on the 8th of May and the 5th of August, the sun passes directly over a hole in the ground that leads to an underground temple. This is a phenomenon referred to as zenithal passage of the sun, and when it occurs, a beam of light passes straight through the hole, illuminating the entire chamber. When the guide showed us a video of this process, our jaws practically touched the floor. It looks like a waterfall of light. Simply ethereal!
It was also here that I got to see a pelote court for the very first time. Whilst pelote was mostly a Mayan tradition, Zapotecs engaged in the same game albeit their courts were narrower than was customary. The ballgame, according to our guide, was a very famous Mesoamerican tradition that probably started with the Olmecs or the Toltecs. It has been given many names throughout the years, with the words pitz and pokolpok being used by different Mayan tribes.
The game is played in a double T-shaped court which features one hoop on each side through which the players would have to pass a rubber ball. Sounds easy – just like basketball, right? Well, wrong. They could only touch the ball using their hips, forearms, shoulders and knees, with some versions allowing the use of bats and racquets as well. Another catch? The ball could weigh as much as four kilograms. Crazy!
The game could be just that; recreational in nature, or, in a surprising twist of events, part of a ritual that could actually culminate with human sacrifice. But again, it’s not so straight forward. The one to be sacrificed would not be the loser, as common sense would dictate, rather the winner since the gods only deserve the blood of the best. In fact, the winners would be honoured to give their lives up in this way. In the game could participate anyone, from high-class to low-class people. Captured enemies or rulers would be given the option to play the game, with their heads being of more value to the gods.
Walking through the court, I tried to imagine the players as they partook in this game, all dressed up in their traditional costumes, with the audience cheering them on. I asked Romario whether the game’s still played in the present, and, quite surprisingly, he said that in fact there are still some places where pelote is played. Whilst the sport comes nowhere as close as football in terms of popularity, in some parts of Mexico the game is still a big deal, and, in others, it is being revived. Seeing a recording of a pelote match only confirmed how difficult the sport is and made me appreciate the practice even more so!
Moving on
Just like that, my days in Oaxaca too came to an end. By this time, I had already kinda gotten used to the idea of packing everything and heading to a new destination as soon as I got used to one place. I was sure it would get tiring in the long run, but for the time being, it only felt reinvigorating.
Having said that, in the back of my head, I could hear myself asking whether this was the way to travel. I mean, yeah, sure, I had very limited time and this would be the best way to see most of what these cities and towns have to offer, but, at the same time, it felt like I wasn’t assimilating any of the culture. For that, I’d have to live at any one spot for months – years even. Would a couple of days here and there suffice? Would it be better to see less but to experience more? I had a crazy schedule which I seemed to be following to the dot without much effort, but I was still unconvinced regarding this aspect.