I.I.III.I – Oaxaca de Juárez: Day One
OAXACA DE JUÁREZ
I.I.III.I – DAY ONE
13/08/22
The road to Oaxaca… Oh boy, let’s just say it wasn’t quite a pleasant one – not one to do at night by bus at least. I think it was the first time in my life I admitted to myself I would’ve rather caught a flight instead. Just short of twelve hours, the route I decided to take had so many sleeping police it kinda explains why they’re so ineffectual at their jobs, with so many stops it felt like Buddy pressing all the buttons on a skyscraper’s elevator.
Again, I might be over-exaggerating, but one might have to exercise some kind of superpower in order to be able to sleep through the night on such a trip – something which I always thought I had. Up until then, I’d manage to sleep through the unspeakable – fireworks, my neighbour’s clarinet practice, my brother playing videogames in the same room, my mother screaming at the dogs, my dogs screaming at my mother. Until this one trip. Much like my experience at the airport, it too ended quite suddenly the second I got to my next destination – Oaxaca.
The City
Oaxaca de Juárez, like Puebla, is the capital of its own state with the same name. The city is named after the native Benito Juárez, a President who was responsible for the separation of church and state and led Mexico through its invasion by France to earn its independence. It is also referred to as La Verde Antequera; with green cantera stone being used in many structures and constructions such as fountains, roads and buildings. Another distinguishing feature of Oaxaca is that out of the 68 languages spoken in Mexico, 16 of them are exclusively spoken by the people here!
Oaxaca, being one of the most famous touristic destinations, was, to me, not unlike Puebla in many ways. Street art, colourful buildings with barred windows, music and dancing in the middle of the streets and what have you. I’d say wandering the streets is the best thing to do in this city, but really and truly, I could go on and on about the food and only that. Spoiler alert, it’s the best in Mexico – at least based on the places I’ve visited and according to my undiscerning tastes. From tortas to mole, from tamales to tacos, anything and everything left me drooling and wanting seconds and thirds (and fourths)!
Crashing
Amongst my never-ending to-visit list here was the Catedral de Santo Domingo. Standing some four blocks away from the imposing cathedral, I was drawn to it by loud music and people cheering. I made my way to the small square facing the church where a huge crowd was assembled. In between the chaos and havoc stood two guys wearing a mask made of some kind of animal pelt, with two slits for eyes and a colourful attire made of plastic strips. Standing around were six ladies wearing beautiful, multicoloured traditional dresses with baskets full of flowers over their head.
Right in the centre of the parade were two tall, paper mâché figures being moved by two guys on stilts. A female and a male, with a huge balloon in between and the names “Audrey & Moy” written over them. It didn’t take too long for me realise what was going on. As I stood there in my trekking attire and my huge backpack, it quickly dawned on me I had crashed a friggin wedding – albeit an open, public one.
The music and cheering quickly came to a halt as soon as the newlyweds walked out of the cathedral – the crowd once again ablaze in a fury of applause and screams. The ladies then lined up on opposite sides and began dancing to the music of the mariachis as they spun around – their colourful skirts elegantly twirling in purposeful, synchronous movements. The bride and groom, surrounded by their loved ones, started dancing around with everyone, greeting family, friends and strangers alike, offering mezcal and tequila to anyone and everyone as they posed for photos.
Turns out, this is a Mexican tradition known as a callejoneada; a parade that takes the happy couple and their guests from the church to their reception venue. The stereotypical ‘the more the merrier’ attitude that is so common in Latin culture holds true here, with tourists, locals and relatives alike being included in the celebration. Being part of it, completely unintentional though it might have been, was something special to say the least – especially being handed out free drinks!