Mexico City – Day 6: Teotihuacán Awakenings
MEXICO CITY
Day 6: Teotihuacán Awakenings
August 09, 2022
As I’ve already said, there’s much to say about Mexico City. But if I had to choose one thing that stands out above everything else, it would be the pyramids of Teotihuacan. It was there that I felt as if I had been spiritually awakened.
I’m not a religious kinda guy. I’m also not what most would call spiritual. I don’t believe in the mind, energy, chakras, or any metaphysical beings. I’m not saying they don’t exist – just that I don’t believe in them. It’s only the physical for me, baby. But sometimes (very rarely) I can’t help but feel connected to certain places. The last time I felt that was in the Ciudad Perdida in Colombia. Lying there, in the midst of the ruins, surrounded by mountains on every side, it felt as if I could communicate with the past – as if I were connecting with some sort of energy, some sort of greater power. I still remember it so, so vividly.
An Ancient City
Finally, as I explored the ruins of yet another great city, I felt the exact same thing. The moment the Pyramid of the Moon came into view, I was overcome with an overwhelming, indescribable rush of emotion. I felt tears rolling down my cheeks – unbearable nostalgia, melancholia, grief, pride, strength, happiness. A civilisation that once was, but no longer is – one I can never, ever be a part of – somehow, someway, against all odds, managed to break through the boundary of time and make its presence felt in such a distant future.
Uhm, yeah, where was I? Oh yeah! So… the ruins of Teotihuacan – an ancient Mesoamerican city dating back to 100 AD. Much of its history, including who built it, is still shrouded in mystery. Whilst it began as a religious centre, it’s also believed that it may have been the heart of an empire, given that it was the largest city in the Americas at the time, with a population of around 125,000 at its peak.
What we do know is that the city reached its zenith around 450 AD and began to decline by 600 AD. Arguably, this might have been due to climate change, with lengthy droughts leading to famine, or, due to political unrest, with evidence suggesting the city was burned down at the end of its era. The remains of the city were then later discovered by the Aztecs who claimed it as their own for a short time and gave it the name we still use today: “Teotihuacan,” meaning birthplace of the gods.
In the complex, one can find two major structures: the Pyramid of the Sun – one of the largest pyramids in Mesoamerica – and the Pyramid of the Moon,; shaped like the Cerro Gordo Mountain, with a large platform at the top used for rituals and sacrifices. In addition, there is a citadel next to a third pyramid: the Pyramid of the Feathered Serpent, Quetzalcoatl. A fourth structure, the Palace of Quetzalpapálotl, features carvings of the feathered serpent – a symbol of water, power, wisdom, and fertility – with Mayan engravings etched into the columns.
Jairo, my guide for the day, explained that the pyramids were likely misnamed, as there’s no evidence suggesting they were dedicated to either the sun or the moon, albeit they may be used to calculate certain aspects of the solar and lunar calendar respectively. In fact, the destruction of the temples that once stood atop the pyramids has left us bereft of any definitive evidence. Another thing we’ll never fully appreciate is how the city looked in its glory days – vibrant with colour and decorations that have long since faded.
Between the Pyramid of the Moon and that of Quetzalcoatl lies the Avenue of the Dead, flanked by complex residential compounds and the Pyramid of the Sun along its four-kilometre course. Walking through it, I couldn’t help but feel as if I were participating in some sort of procession or feast, especially with all the vendors selling their toys and souvenirs by the roadside. This, Jairo added, was also erroneously named by the Aztecs, who thought the pyramids lining its sides were tombs.
Goodbye CDMX
Just like that, my first week was over. In just one week, I had seen so many incredible things and met so many people along the way, it kinda felt like I had been there for months. But at the same time, it also felt as if it had flown by. For some, eight months on the road might seem like quite a while, but to me, it meant that those eight months too would fly by. It meant that if I so much as blinked, I might miss something waiting to be discovered. And so, I swore to never blink again…
Stay wild,
Marius
Post-Scriptum
Having decided to quit smoking while travelling, I quickly went back on my word and chased a complete stranger who was having a cigarette down the Avenue of the Dead, just to ask for one. I simply couldn’t not smoke in such a place. You see, smoking grounds me. It helps me feel connected, and I wanted to intensify the feeling of connection I felt there. Being a vice I’ve tried to give up for years on end, I swore I’d only smoke on such occasions. In hindsight, it was a poor decision, considering how many of these places I’d end up visiting. No wonder I didn’t manage to quit!