I.I.I.IV – Mexico City: Day Six
MEXICO CITY
I.I.I.IV – DAY SIX
09/08/22
As I already said, there is much to say about Mexico City. But if I were to choose one thing that stands out on top of every other thing, it’s the pyramids of Teotihuacan. It was there that I felt as if I had been spiritually awakened.
I’m not a religious kinda guy. I’m also not what most would call spiritual. I don’t believe in the mind or energy or chakra or any metaphysical being or presence. I’m not saying they don’t exist; just that I don’t believe in them. It’s only the physical for me baby. But sometimes, very rarely, I can’t help but feel connected to some places. The last time I had felt that was in the Ciudad Perdida in Colombia. When I was laying there, in the midst of the ruins surrounded by the mountains on every side, it felt as if I could communicate with the past, as if I were connecting with some sort of energy, some sort of greater power. I still remember it quite vividly.
An Ancient City
Finally I was once again exploring the ruins of yet another great city, I could feel the exact same thing. The second the Pyramid of the Moon came into my field of vision, I felt this overwhelming, indescribable rush of emotions. I could feel tears rolling down my cheeks. Unbearable nostalgia, melancholia, grief, pride, strength, happiness. A civilisation that once was but now isn’t – one I can never, ever be a part of, one that somehow, someway, against all odds, managed to break through the boundary of time and had its presence felt in such a distant future.
Uhm, yeah, where was I? Oh yeah! So… The ruins of Teotihuacan… An ancient Mesoamerican city, dating back to 100AD. Much of its history, including who built it, is, to this day, shrouded in mystery. Whilst it began as a religious centre, it is also assumed that it might have been the centre of an empire, given that it was the largest city in the Americas at the time, with a population of around 125,000 at its peak.
What we do know about its history, is that it reached its zenith at around 450AD and started its decline in 600AD. Arguably, this might have been due to climate change, with lengthy droughts leading to famine, or, due to political unrest, with evidence suggesting the city was burned down at the end of its era. The remains of the city were then later discovered by the Aztecs who claimed it as their own for a short time and gave it the name we use presently, which means ‘birthplace of the gods’.
In the complex, one can find two large structures; the Pyramid of the Sun; one of the largest pyramid in Mesoamerica, and the Pyramid of the Moon; shaped like the Cerro Gordo Mountain with a large platform at the top used for rituals and sacrifices. In addition, there is a citadel right next to a third pyramid; the Pyramid of the Feathered Serpent Quetzalcoatl, and a fourth structure, the Palace of Quetzalpapálot, featuring carvings of the feathered serpent; a symbol of water, power, wisdom and fertility, with Mayan engravings on the surface of the columns.
Jairo, our guide, told us that the pyramids were incorrectly named, as none of the evidence shows that they are dedicated to either the sun or moon, albeit they may be used to calculate certain aspects of the solar and lunar calendar respectively. In fact, the destruction of the temples that would otherwise sit at the top of both pyramids, has left us bereft of all evidence. Another thing we won’t ever get to appreciate is the city as it looked back in its glory day – full of colour and decorations that have faded with time.
Between the Pyramid of the Moon and that of Quetzalcoatl, lies the Avenue of the Dead, with complex residential compounds and the Pyramid of the Sun found along its four-kilometre course. Walking through this, I couldn’t help but feel as if I were participating in some sort of procession or feast, especially with all the vendors selling all their toys and souvenirs by the side. This, Jairo added, was also erroneously named by the Aztecs as they thought the pyramids flanking its sides were tombs.
Goodbye CDMX
Just like that, my first week was over. In just one week, I had seen so many incredible things and met so many people along the way it kinda felt like I had been there for months. But at the same time, it also felt as if it had flown by. For some, eight months on the road might seem like quite a while, but to me, this meant that those eight months too, would fly by. It meant that if I’d so much as blink, I might miss something that’s waiting to be discovered. And so, I swore to never blink again!
Stay wild,
Marius
Post-Scriptum
Having had decided to quit smoking whilst I’d be travelling, I quickly went back on my words and chased a complete stranger who was having a cigarette down the Avenue of the Dead whilst exploring Teotihuacan in order to ask for one. I simply couldn’t not smoke in such a place. You see, to me, smoking grounds me. It helps me feel connected, and I wanted to intensify this feeling of connection I felt there. Being a vice I have been trying to get rid of for years on end, I swore I’d only smoke only on such occasions. In hindsight, I can say it was a poor decision, considering how many of such places I’d be visiting. No wonder I ended up smoking again.